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PROF, DAVID BENJAMIN MORGAN, V. S, 



Born in Carmarthenshire, South Wales. Has traveled in England, Scot- 
land, Ireland, France, Spain, Central America, Mexico, Canada, and most 
of the United States. Permanent address, Favetteville, Arkansas. 




PRINCE AND THE DOCTOR, 



This is a good picture of Prince, the off horse in my team. Prince 
has worn the silver tube in his throat for four years. Prince was foaled 
in Boone County, Arkansas, and before it was inserted he was a "roarer" 
and practically worthless, as he was afflicted with paralysis of the nerves 
that control the involuntary muscles of the throat. The noble animal 
suffered a great deal before I inserted this tube, but since then has been 
able to breathe with ease and comfort. My experience convinces me 
that this is the only remedy for a bad "roarer," although various sur- 
gical operations have been attempted, and some are claimed to be suc- 
cessful. When the cause is paralysis of certain nerves it is unreasonable 
to claim that cutting away certain parts can remove the cause, or do 
anything more than partially alleviate the difficulties of breathing. 



( Y 

TWENTIETH CENTURY 

HORSE BOOK. 

METHOD OF HANDLING AND 

EDUCATING THE HORSE. 

NEW AND SIMPLE 

TREATMENT OF DISEASES 

BY 

Morgan's Twelve-Remedy System. 



DENTISTRY & CASTRATION. 

ALSO A SHORT TREATISE ON 

CATTLE, SWINE, DOGS AND CHICKENS, 

GIVING DISEASES AND REMEDIES. 



Bv PROF. DAVID B; MORGAN, V. S. 





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Fayetteville, Ark. : 


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D. B. MORGAN, PUBLISHER. 












1902. 























Copyright, 1902, by D. B. Morgan. 

All Rights Reserved. 



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DANIEL T. MORGAN. 

Father of Dr. Morgan. 






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"A man of kindness to his beast is kind, 
But brutal actions show a brutal mind." 



PREFACE. 



My greatest aim in preparing this book has been to make it as 
plain as possible for non-professional readers, and to give them infor- 
mation which is of the greatest importance to all horsemen. I have 
endeavored to avoid all technical terms, and at the same time make 

everything as short as possible, as 
in this age of progression the farm- 
er and stockman have not the time 
to devote to reading lengthy treat- 
ises on diseases of domestic ani- 
mals. I have given my own prac- 
tical ideas in giving the causes, 
symptoms and treatment of each 
disease — only copying from others 
where the same met with my ap- 
proval. 

I do not offer this book with pre- 
tensions to literary merits, for writ- 
ing books is not my business, and 
beg from a scrutinizing public a 
charitable criticism for any short- 
comings which may be discovered, 
and yet, I feel quite confident that 
this work will meet with the hearty 
Companions. approval of all who would be wise 

for their own interests, as it is my object to be useful rather than to 
appear learned. A great many veterinary surgeons criticise me for 
traveling and lecturing on the diseases of the horse, and practicing in 
this manner, but I care nothing for their criticisms, as I am desirous 
of fulfilling (as I thiuk) my mission on earth by educating the peo- 
ple, and thereby bringing about a much needed reform in the proper 
treatment and management of the most valuable animal of the brute 
creation. I do not believe in the old-fogy methods practiced by some. 
I do not work any schemes or fakes on the public, as I am sorry 
to say is the case with about one-half of the veterinarians that I have 
met on the road, but when I once visit a town I can return to the 




4 



TWENTIETH CENTURY HORSE BOOK. 



same town afterwards, with a feeling of pleasure, knowing that I have 
done some good in the place on my former visits. 

My reason for claiming that I am performing a laudable mission 
is that I am trying to educate the public to the wants of the horse. 
The reason that the horse suffers so much is that his wants are not 
understood by the people. In the language of Hon. Geo. T. Angell, 
president of the American Humane and Education Society, "We 
speak for those who cannot speak for themselves." This great and 
good man is doing more good for the relief of suffering humanity and 
dumb animals than any living man today, and the paper published by 
him in Boston, Mass., under the title of "Our Dumb Animals," 




This is the skeleton of Bald Eagle, the Southwest Missouri Racer, articulated by 

Dr. Morgan, who carries it with him. 

should be taken by every family in this country, as its mission is "To 
teach and lead every child and older person to seize every opportunity 
to say a kind word or do a kind act that will make some other human 
being or some dumb creature happier." 

I have endeavored in this volume to give a short history of the 
horse. The anatomical structure of the horse cannot fail to be instruct- 
ive to all who feel interested in the beautiful animal, and I think it is 
so brief and plain that every one can understand it. I have devoted a 
chapter to the education and training of ahorse, as the subject of train- 
ing horses has been for the past forty-five years attracting a great 
deal of attention, as it should, for no branch has been more neglected 
than this. A great many methods have been brought before the pub- 



morgan's treatment and training. 



He for their approval, and a great many good books have been written 
upon the subject, and a great many have been written by theorists, not 
by practical horsemen. I have been induced by my friends and pupils 
to write this chapter, giving to them my system of horse training, that 
they may ever have by them a manual of the art to aid them in their 
endeavors to subdue and train their horse, not by violence, but by kind- 
ness, which alone can overcome and control the nature of any animal. 

I have handled horses in the presence of thousands, and horses of 
every age, disposition and character have been my subjects. 

The uniform success which has attended my method is sufficient 
guarantee that it the true way. I use nothing in subduing the horse 
but what is described in as plain language as I could use. Every horse 
trainer, I believe, who has offered his services to the public, has issued 




This is Kif Kif, the Arabian Horse which took the prize at Paris, France. 

his book, and a great many of them either stated in their books or in 
their schools, that certain drugs must first be used to bring the horse, 
if wild or vicious, into subjection. I contend that no horse can be 
thoroughly and effectually trained when under the influence of any 
drug or drugs, and, therefore, I use none but the simple and common- 
sense method I have here described, and am confident that if my 
method is faithfully carried out, any one else may become as success- 
ful as I have been. No one would think of giving a person intoxicat- 
ing drinks or drugs, until the brain and mental faculties are stupefied, 
and then attempt to teach him to do something that is contrary to his 
nature. He might follow your directions and do as you require while 
in this idiotic state, but when the influence of this spell thrown over 
him has passed off, how much will the memory retain of what you have 
been attempting to teach him? 



TWENTIETH CENTURY HORSE BOOK. 



The old method teaches to strap up one foot so that the horse can- 
not, under any circumstances, obtain the use of it in any stage of the 
training, which will, certainly at once, be understood by all sensible 
persons as perfect cruelty. By using such methods as this you govern 
only by fear, and the animal is only safe when controlled by the person 
who trained him or an experienced horseman. He must, also, lose 
much of that courage and noble and lofty spirit for which he is so re- 
markable, because of this influence. Every horse trainer naturally 
thinks his way the best, hence I claim my method superior to any other, 
for it is the only one that has stood the severest tests, and upon exami- 
nation and reflection it will be apparent to every person that it is the 
only sensible and practical method of successfully training horses. 

The different diseases of the horse and the operations of various 
kinds are treated upon, and in the castrations of the horse I have en- 
deavored to introduce new methods that will do away with the old 
and extremely cruel manner of + using clamps and searing with a red 
hot iron. 

In the chapter that is devoted to the treatment of the teeth of 
horses, together with the different cuts, the author has tried to be so 
plain in the language used that every one can comprehend, as this 
branch of Veterinary Surgery has been neglected more than any oth- 
er. And it is hoped that the short treatise on cattle, dogs, chickens 
and hogs will be of use as well as interest. 

I have traveled for sixteen years and practiced in a majority of 
the States in the United States as well as some foreign countries, car- 
rying a very large collection of different anatomical specimens that I 
have collected during my travels, and also have one of the most com- 
plete sets of instruments in the United States, (traveling in my own 
wagon built especially for my business). 

The treatment given in this book for each disease can be relied 
upon as the best to aid non-professional horse owners in the diagnosis 
and treatment of diseases, as Morgan's seven stock remedies have 
been sold on the market for fifteen years, and are recognized as the 
standard, and I also show how to perform the most difficult opera- 
tions, thus fitting every man of common sense to treat his own horses. 



Maker of earth, and sea and sky. 
Creation's Sovereign Lord and King; 

Who hung the starry worlds on high 
And formed alike the sparrow's wiug: 

Bless the dumb creatures of Thy care, 
And listen to their voiceless prayer. 



Emily B. Lord. 



morgan's treatment and training. 



"Remember, He who made thee, made the brute; 

Who gave thee speech and reason formed him mute. 
He can't complain, but God's all-seeing eye 

Beholds thy cruelty, and hears his cry." 



HISTORY OF THE HORSE. 




The beauty, grace and dignity of this noble creature, when in 
a properly developed state, are as marked as his utility. As an intel- 
ligent animal he ranks next in scale to the dog, that other companion 
and friend to man. Taking into consideration his usefulness, his at- 
tractive appearance and his intelligence, what is known of his history 

cannot prove unacceptable. In order to 
ascertain to a certainty, the country 
that can claim the proud distinction of 
having been the parent country, the 
birth place of this noble animal, re- 
course must be taken, primarily, to the 
pages of scripture as being the most an- 
cient and authentic of all existing his- 
tory. By reference to those pages, we find that although the ass was 
in early use among the children of Israel, the horse was unknown to 
them until after the commencement of their dwelling in Egypt. 
Strong evidence exists for trie belief that he was not brought into sub- 
jection there until after their arrival. Clear it is at all events, that 
Arabia, which many have supposed to be the native home of the horse, 
did not possess him until within a comparatively recent period, while 
his introduction into Greece, and thence into the countries of Europe 
and Asia, wmere he is now found, either wild or domesticated, may be 
traced with much certainty to an Egyptian source. 

The first instance of horses being mentioned is in that most an- 
cient and authentic of all existing histories, the scriptures. The first 
notice may be found in Genesis, chapter XLVIII, verse 17: "And 
Joseph gave them (the Egyptians) bread in exchange for horses." 
This was B. C. 1702, and is the first and earliest record we have. We 
are subsequently informed that they multiplied with great rapidity; 
for when Joseph removed his father's remains from Egypt to Canaan 
(B. C. 1670,) there went up with him "both chariots and horsemen," 
and we find that in a century and a half after this period, the horse 
constituted the principal strength of the Egyptian army. At the time 
of the exodus, some fifteen hundred years before the Christian era, the 
pursuing army contained six hundred chosen chariots and all the 



TWENTIETH CENTURY HORSE BOOK. 



chariots of Egypt, together with all the horsemen, and when the Is- 
raelites returned to Canaan we find that the horse had been already 
naturalized in that country, since the Canaanites went out to fight 
against the Israelites with horses and chariots very many. We also 
know from the history of Homer and from ancient sculptures of Per- 
sepolis and Nineveh, that the horse was used for purposes of draught 
for some time previous to his being ridden. 

From these considerations and from the fact that so late as six 
hundred years after this date, Arabia still had no horses, it is by no 
means improbable that the shepherd kings of Egypt, whose origin is 
unknown, introduced the horse into Egypt, and that after this period 
that country became the principal herding district of this animal, 
whence he was gradually introduced into Arabia and other Asiatic 
countries. From the same stock is doubtless derived the entire race 
in all the southeastern parts of Europe. 

As Egypt is not in any respect a favorable country for horse 
breeding, still less for his original existence in a state of nature, the 
source from whence he was first introduced into that country is in 
some degree enveloped in uncertainty; though the better • opinion, 
based upon much indirect testimony, is that he was a native of the 
soil of Africa, which also was the parent country of the Zebra and 
Quagga — two similar animals. No record is extant of the precise 
period when the horse was first introduced into Europe. The fre- 
quent wars between the Greeks and Persians were probably the means 
of introducing him into Greece, as we read that Xerxes, who invaded 
that country, had eighty thousand horses, principally chosen stall- 
ions; from thence it was a very easy matter for them to spread over 
the continent of Europe. The first Arabian horse introduced into 
England was during the reign of James I. In the oldest sculptures 
probably in existence — those removed by Layard from the ruins of 
Nineveh and illustrative of almost every phase of regal and military 
life, the horse is uniformly represented as a remarkably high crested, 
large headed, heavy shouldered animal, rather large boned, power- 
fully limbed, his neck clothed with volumes of shaggy mane. 

Solomon was an admirer of horses, as well as good looking wom- 
en. B. C. 992: I Kings, chapter X, verse 28: ' k And Solomon had 
horses brought out of Egypt." In the 25th verse of the same chapter 
it speaks of the men bringing horses and mules (B. C. 992); and Sol- 
omon had four thousand stalls for horses and chariots and twelve 
thousand horsemen whom he bestowed in the Chariot City and with 
the kings at Jerusalem. — Chron., 9th chapter, 25th verse. 



morgan's treatment and training. 



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IO 



TWENTIETH CENTURY HORSE BOOK. 



THE ANATOMY OF THE HORSE. 



CLASSIFICATION OF THE VARIOUS ORGANS; STRUCTURE OF BONE; OF 
THE SKELETON IN GENERAL; NUMBER OF BONES COMPOSING THE 
SKELETON, WITH COMPREHENSIVE DESCRIPTION OF THE ANATOM- 
ICAL STRUCTURE OF THE HORSE. 

The body of the horse, like all the vertebrate animals, may be 
considered as made ivp of several distinct apparatuses or systems. Of 
these, the first is a machine composed of the bony skeleton, or frame- 
work, the various parts of which are united by joints and moved by 
muscles. 

Secondly, there are contained 
within the thorax the organs which 
supply the whole body with the 
means of nutrition, in the form of 
blood, and purify this fluid. 

Thirdly, in the abdomen are 
presented to view the important 
organs which assimilate the food 
to the condition of the blood; while 
in the adjoining cavity, the pelvis, 
are the urinary and generative 
apparatuses. 

Fourthly, the nervous system 
may be considered as comprising 
the grand centre of the mental fac- 
ulties, and also as presiding over and controlling the whole of the 
functions performed by the several organs; and 

Fifthly, certain special organs, as for example, those of sense, 
and likewise, the foot will complete the circle. 

The bones are composed of a tissue peculiar to them, enveloped 
by a membrane, the periostem. They contain a semi-fluid of a fatty 
nature, the marrow, and pierced in various directions by blood ves- 
sels and nerves. 

The skeleton is composed of two hundred and forty-seven sepa- 
rate bones, which are united by joints to form the spine, thorax, pel- 
vis, tail, and fore and hind extremities. The spine is finished anteri- 
orly by the head, which is. divided into the cranium and face, and 
contains the teeth. Suspended from the head is the os hyoides, 




morgan's treatment and training. 



II 



which complete the number of bones. Thus: 

The spine consists of 7 cervical, 18 dorsal, and 6 lumbar — vertebrae, total 31 

The thorax is made up of the dorsal vertebrae, with 18 ribs on each side, and the 

sternum in the middle, total 37 

The pelvis comprises 2 ossa innominata (or iliumischium, and pubes,) and 

sacrum, total 3 

The tail contains, on the average, 17 bones 17 

The fore extremity is made up on each side of the scapula, humerus, os brachii, 
and 8 carpal bones, 3 metacarpal, os suffraginis, os coronas, os pedis, os 

naviculare, 2 ossa sesamoidea, total on both sides 4° 

The hind extremity has the femur, patilla, tibia, fibula, 6 tarsal bones, 3 meta- 
tarsals, os suffraginis, os coronae, os pedis, os naviculare, 2 ossa sesamoidea, 

total 3 8 

Bones of the cranium , • 10 

Bones of the face and lower jaw 18 

Teeth 40 

Bones of the internal ear, 4 in each organ 8 

Os hyoides, or bone of the tongue, made up of five sections 5 

Grand total 247 

The following full and comprehensive description of the anatom- 
ical structure of the horse cannot fail to be instructive to all who feel 
interested in this beautiful animal, and I think it is so brief and plain 
that every one can understand it: 




SECTION OF THE ABDOMEN AND PELVIS, WITH THE INTESTINES 
AND LIVER REMOVED, AND LONGITUDINAL SEC- 
TION OF THE THORAX, ETC. 

A. The Stomach, b. Spleen, c. Left kidney, d. Broad ligament of the 
uterus, with left cornu and ovary displayed, e. Rectum, f. Anus. g. h. i. j. k. 1. 
Internal muscles of the thigh. 1. Occiput. 2. Cerebellum. 3. Cerebrum. 4. 
Nasal membrane. 5. Tongue. 6 6. Cervical vertebrae. 7 7 7 7- Spinal cord. 8. 
Pharynx. 999. CEsophagus. 10. Cardiac orifice of the stomach passing through 
the diaphragm. 11. Pylorus. 12 12. Posterior surface of the diaphragm. 13 13. 
Trachea. 14. Lungs. 15. Heart. 



12 



TWENTIETH CENTURY HORSE BOOK. 





ARTIST MONTROSE AND HIS RIDER. 



The author takes pleasure in presenting the above picture, engraved 
especially for this work, of x\rtist Montrose, winner of first prize at St. 
Louis in 1889, and sweepstakes at the Columbian Exposition in Chicago in 
1893. I saw him at the World's Fair, and he seemed to me to be the no- 
blest, handsomest and proudest specimen of horse flesh I ever saw. He 
was then and is now owned by Judge A. F. Wyckoff, of Appleton City, 
Mo., who has been offered large sums for him, but the Judge is too great 
a lover of the beautiful animal to think of parting with the champion sad- 
dle horse of the world. The rider in the picture is Jeff Bridgford, of Paris, 
Mo., who trained and rode Artist Montrose to victory, and on the day fol- 
lowing, the old gentleman, 71 years of age, was awarded first prize as the 
best rider of the world. 




HARRY B. MORGAN AND DUKE. 



Henry B. Morgan is a brother of Dr. D. B. Morgan, and is his 
able assistant and understudy. "Duke" is my favorite horse. His 
intelligence is almost human, and his disposition is simply perfect. 
He was never known to do anything wrong. When I first picked 
him up in Benton County, Arkansas, he was a mere wreck or frame 
of a horse, simply because he had one long tooth which caused him 
intense pain, and prevented him from masticating his food. This was 
soon remedied, and from that day to this "Duke" has been telling 
every horse he meets how the Doctor relieved him of his sufferiu?. 



morgan's treatment and training. 



1 5 



TRAINING HORSES. 




The training of horses is a matter of great nicety. 
They are trained for various purposes, but mostly 
for our convenience and pleasure, or for the trans- 
portation of our goods. In olden times burdens 
were transported from place to place on the backs of 
pack-horses, and they are so used in Spain now. I 
have seen fifteen or twenty in one row bringing 
charcoal from the mountains. In those days they 
A Noble Head. Vere used thus in the mountainous regions, and all 
journeys were made on horseback. As improvements took place in 
roads, vehicles suitable for the carriage of goods and persons and 
drawn by horses in harness were substituted for these methods, and 
it was necessary to teach the horse differently, rendering his training 
more difficult and quite an art. 

With the improvement made in the breed of the horse since the 
days of the pack and riding saddle, a great change has also taken 
place in the management and training of this noble animal. The 
former methods were not only seriously defective, but absolutely 
injurious. The mode of breaking a young horse was not merely hurt- 
ful to him and dangerous to the person performing the operation of 
training, but cruel in the extreme. Frequently, without being accus- 
tomed to the bridle or any incumbrance, he was mounted, and if he 
refused to comply with the wishes of the rider, the young horse, 
ignorant and alarmed, was unmercifully beaten; he was jerked by the 
head backward and forward, until becoming wild with fright, he 
dashed off and often unseated his rider at a single bound. I have 
known many instances in which, at the outset, the animal went off 
kindly, and the injudicious rider continued the exercise until the 
horse was completely jaded down and dispirited. A horse, if taken 
early, can be rendered perfectly tractable and docile by tender and 
kind treatment. I give in these pages the only true and practical 
method, and if my plan, here given, is faithfully carried out, it will 
in every instance, be successful in taming and thoroughly subduing 
the most stubborn and vicious animal. Observation and experience 
teach that the horse is possessed of as much, or more acuteness of the 
senses as man, and that his nature is governed by fixed laws. Know- 
ing this, our success in controlling and managing him will depend 



1 6 TWENTIETH CENTURY HORSE BOOK. 




upon the amount of prudence and intelligence we exercise in conform- 
ity to the requirements of his nature, and the advantages we take of 
his ignorance to impress him with a sense of our power and suprem- 
acy. The horse is stronger than man, and if he learns to resist and is 
successful in resisting, he will ever continue to do so. He will 
acquire bad habits only so far as he discovers we are unable to compel 
submission. 

The secret of managing and training horses lies in man's mental 
and intellectual superiority. The superiority enables us to devise and 
use means to overcome the strength of the horse, and it is only by the 
resources of the mind that we can effectually keep him in ignorance 
of his strength. Impress him with a feeling of man's power and 
superiority, and cause him to yield willing and ready obedience to our 

commands. We must conform 
to his nature so as not to excite 
resistance in him, and not let 
him comprehend the possibility 
of resistance, and must so dis- 
concert and control him that he 
will be impressed with the great- 
est force of man's supremacy and power. The horse takes man for 
just what he proves himself by his actions. Man doubts and fears 
because he reasons. The animal, reasoning from experience alone, 
will doubt and fear only as taught by our actions toward him. If 
these are uniform in kindness and trust, there will be corresponding 
trust and confidence on the part of the animal, as he associates with 
man's presence a feeling of security and protection; and this because 
he has not been taught by deception to doubt. The horse becomes 
in the character of his habits just what he is made — in exact propor- 
tion to the teaching and example to which he has been subject. 

Patience, perseverance and kindness are the only drugs to 
be used, and rightly used, these are the most powerful known, the 
influence of which does not pass off in a few moments, leaving your 
animal in a state of stupidity and ignorance of what you have been 
teaching him. You also preserve all his natural spirit and pride. 
He is taught by kindness that you are his master, and he will take 
pride in showing you he appreciates this kindness, and the highest 
spirited horse will be safe, even in the hands of a lady or child, for he 
will associate mankind with a feeling of security from all dangers or 
harm. He will yield instant obedience to your orders, for he loves 
praise and admiration, and you should always pet and caress your 




morgan's treatment and training. 17 

horse after he has done you a service, as much as you would a child, 
for he is a child as far as mind is concerned, compared with man, and 
nothing else, unless you teach him by cruelty that he is superior to 
you not only in strength but in brains. No person with any brains at 
all will ever treat a member of the brute creation with cruelty. Treat 
your horse with uniform kindness, and he will ever be your willing 
and obedient servant. Never punish or strike your horse without his 
knowing what it is for; then let him understand fully that it is 
intended as a punishment, and you will not soon be obliged to repeat 
the chastisement. Use patience, perseverance arid kindness in the 
place of foot-straps, drugs and whips, and you will meet with the full- 
est success, and be assured that it is far easier to rule by love than 

fear. I have never yet failed in a single 
instance, to teach the tricks which I shall 
give in the methods laid down, in from 
one to five lessons. Let your lessons be 
short. and frequent. Always have some- 
thing in readiness that your horse is fond 

Man-eating Horse. Q f to g{ ve hi m a f ter eac fr lesson, that he 

will be paid for doing well; and what he learns he will not forget, as 
there is a reward ever in his mind. 

Owing to the great improvements made in the training and disci- 
pline of the horse, he becomes attached to the habits and manners to 
which he has been accustomed. He apparently delights in the 
noise and tumult of arms, and faces the enemy with alacrity and 
resolution, equally intrepid as his master; he encounters danger and 
death with ardor and magnanimity. But it is not in perils and con- 
flicts alone that he willingly co-operates with his rider. He takes part 
in human pleasures; he excels in the tournament and chase. He not 
only yields to the hand, but seems to consult the inclinations of his 
rider. Uniformly obedient to the permission he receives, he flies or 
stops, and regulates his motion entirely by his master's will — in a 
measure, he renounces his very existence to the pleasures of man; he 
delivers up his whole powers — he reserves nothing — and often dies 
rather than disobey or endanger his master. But all this he does, not 
because it is any pleasure or profit to the horse, but simply because of 
a sense of duty, just as a sense of duty impels the soldier to suffer all 
the hardships of forced marches, short rations, inclement weather and 
the dangers of the battlefield, rather than any pleasure he takes in 
what he does. The more you train your horse the more he is worth. 
Look at Dan Rice's old horse — the laro;e sum he was offered for him. It 



r8 



TWENTIETH CENTURY HORSE BOOK. 



wasn't for the horse that they offered it — for the poor old animal was 
blind in one eye and had a spavin; but it was for his education. 
Educate your horse. If the mare is educated, the colt will be easier 
taught. This is why the Arabian horse is so intelligent. The Ara- 
bians think as much of their horses as they do of their children in the 
house, and talk to them as they do to their children. A man should 
treat his horse as a child. He can't speak and tell what he wants; he 







Riding and Driving Bridle. 



depends on man for everything. If you mistreat your horse, I think 
your chances for heaven are very poor; it is one of the greatest sins on 
earth. Remember, farmers and horse-owners, your old horses after 
they have worked for you fifteen or twenty years. Take care of 
them. Don't sell them to any one who has not feed to give them. 
I have heard men say: '*I only want the old thing to raise this 
crop, after that I don't care if he dies." Don't do that, but feed 



morgan's treatment and training. 19 

him and treat him kindly for what he has done, or kill him and let 
him go to "horse heaven." 

In the commencement of his training you should show your horse 
just what you wish him to do, and then by kindness compel him to 
obey you. Horses, it is true, are as varied in their disposition and 
intelligence as men, almost, and sometimes, when the horse who has 
long been without a master, is your pupil, it seems that something 
more than kindness will be required to subdue him. Patience and 
perseverance added to kindness will render your efforts successful, 
and hence it is necessary that your lessons should be short and 
repeated frequently, and he will, by these frequent and repeated les- 
sons, soon find that resistance is useless and become a willing subject 
to man's mental and intellectual superiority. Bear in mind, at all 
times, that the horse cannot reason as you do, that he has not been 
endowed with this power, and try to use the patience and reason in 
teaching and controlling him you would, at least, believe necessary 
for yourself to understand, if placed in like circumstances. The 
horse does not realize what kindness is, and it is admitted that a 
good, clever man can teach a horse almost anything, while a master 
who is cruel to his animal cannot teach him, and in ninety-nine times 
out of a hundred will ruin a horse that is naturally of a docile disposi- 
tion. If you wish to be successful in your enterprise of training a 
horse, treat him as you would a child whom you were instructing — 
when the horse has performed what you desire of him, pet and caress 
him for it. Give him something from your hand — a taste of some- 
thing he is fond of — and by this you show him that he has fulfilled 
your requirements and deserves a reward. You would not think of 
turning the child off, after doing what you had requested of it, with- 
out showing him, in some way or by some means, that he had done 
right. 

You should not frighten your horse. He does not fear anything 
that he understands to be harmless, and great pains should be taken 
to familiarize him with and make him examine and smell of such 
things as are likely to frighten him, and let him comprehend that 
they are harmless. Anything that is regarded by the horse with sus- 
picion, he should be allowed to approach cautiously and slowly, and 
examine the nature of the object in his own way, allowing him to un- 
derstand fully by smelling and breathing, and touchnig it with his 
nose, that it is harmless and inoffensive. Familiarize him with your 
training room before you begin with him, and it will materially assist 
you. When you approach him with anything let him examine it 



20 



TWENTIETH CENTURY HORSE BOOK. 



thoroughly and be satisfied it is not intended to harm him, and you 
will get along much faster. 

With these preliminary remarks, I will proceed with the direc- 
tions to be followed in training the young colt or unbroken horse. 



HOW TO APPROACH, HALTER AND LEAD THE WILDEST COLT OF ANY 

AGE WITHOUT DANGER. 

First, put him in an inclosure about twenty feet square. Have it 
high, so that he will not or can not jump it. Turn him loose, then 
get in with him. Have a four-horse whip with about a ten-foot lash 
in your hand. When you approach a wild horse he will turn his 
heels toward you; then use your whip on him until he turns his head 
to you, then stop whipping. That lets him know he has done right. 

Speak kindly to him, pat him 
on the head or side of his neck, 
thus teaching him which end 
the halter goes on. Now walk 
off from him, speak to him gen- 
tly, and tell him to come. If he 
follows you, pet him; but if he 
runs away, keep after him and 
whip him until he turns his 
head to you again, and then pet 
and praise him. This soon 
teaches him that if he stays 
with you, you will not hurt 
him; that you are his friend as 
well as his master. Then you 
can put your halter on him and 
lead him around quietly. Now 
by being kind to him you form 
Ten-cent Bridle. hig acquaintance; he gets to 

like you, and he will do anything in his power to please you, and all 
he asks is a kind word from you. When a horse is well whip-broken, 
the work of taming him is half done. You can train a horse in this 
way in three days so he will follow you up-stairs or down, or any 
place he can go. It is not practicable to use the whip in breaking a 
gentle colt, or one that is halter-broke, unless you want to make a 
trick horse of him, but it is the only practical way to break broncos 
or wild colts that you cannot get up to safely. 




morgan's treatment and training. 



21 



The next thing I teach him is about the bit, so he will turn right 
or left as you wish. You take a small cotton rope about twenty feet in 
length, double it in the middle, then take the double where it forms a 
loop and tie a knot there; then, about a foot from that, tie another 
knot; then put this loop in his mouth on the upper jaw; then take the 
second knot and draw his "top knot" through it; then double the 
ropes, bringing one rope on one side of his head and the other on the 
other; cross them under the jaw five or six times, then bring both 




Ten Cent Driving Bridle. Teaching Colt to Right or Deft. 

ends through the loop in the mouth; then draw the ends back, for 
reins. Now you have a complete bridle. With this a horse can't run 
a rod with you. You then take your leather reins and tie them to the 
ends of the ropes and let them hang loose around him, leaving them 
out of the rings of the harness so you can pull him around as you 
please. Let him get used to the bits on both sides alike. The 
trouble with a young colt is, not being used to the bit, in pulling to 
turn him from right to left or left to right, the bit pulls through the 
mouth. With this rope, this is impossible; as when the rope is pulled 
it will tighten on the jaw and not slip. The colt should be driven 
with the harness, and taught the word u whoa" with the U W" attach- 






TWENTIETH CENTURY HORSE ROOK, 



ment, before being hitched up to the cart. When you can turn him 
right and left satisfactorily, get a two-wheeled cart and hitch him up, 
and instead of urging him to start straight ahead, take your reins and 
turn him right or left, and he will start off at once. Keep the reins 
out of the rings on the back band; this gives you a chance to get the 
advantage of him on one side or the other. This is an anti-bucking, 
anti-kicking and anti-run-away bridle. 

The next thing to teach him is the meaning of the word "whoa," 
so he will stop at the word; then, if anything goes wrong all you 
have to do is to speak the word distinctly and he will stop at once. 

Take a surcingle and put it 
on your horse with three rings 
on it about six inches apart. 
Let them hang under him, then 
take two foot-straps with a ring 
on each one, buckle on the front 
feet, take a small rope about 
twenty feet long, take one end 
of the rope and run it through 
the first ring in the surcingle 
then down through ring in the 
foot-strap on through middle 
ring in the surcingle down to 
the other ring in the foot strap, 
then up to the third ring and 
tie. Then take hold of the 
loose end of the rope and have 
the assistant take hold of the 
halter and lead the horse. When 
you want to, say "whoa!" and 
if he don't stop, pull the rope 
and down he goes on his knees. 
By the time you drop him two 
or three times he w r ill stop at 
once when you say the word. 
Then take the rope and wind it around his hind legs; if he kicks, 
drop him down till he gets so he don't care what you do with him. 
I break a kicker the same way. You can put it on a runaway and if 
he undertakes to run, drop him down. After you drop him once or 
twice all you have to do is to say "whoa!" to him and he will stop at 
once. This is called -the "W" attachment, for it has the shape of 




( W" Attachment. 



morgan's treatment and training. 



23 



that letter. If you have a horse that is hard to eateh in the field, put 
the U W" attachment on him and tie forty or fifty feet of rope to it 
and let it drag after him. Tie a ring to the rope to keep it from slip- 
ping through the first ring and getting loose around his feet. Walk 
up to the end of the rope and speak to your horse, telling him to 
come to yon. If he starts to run drop him on his knees and halloo 
"whoa!" Use him once or twice that way and when you go out to 
the field and tell him to come to you he will come right along. He is 
afraid to run for he thinks you will drop him. You can put this at- 
tachment on the most vicious horse and handle him in perfect safety. 




Showing Horse Thrown to Knees. 
HOW TO TIE A COLT IN A STALL THE FIRST TIME. 

Take a small rope and double it, and put the loop under his tail, 
cross it over the back, bring it in front of the breast and tie the ends 
together. Take your halter strap, bring it through the ring in the 
manger, and tie the loose end to the rope in front of his breast. It 
pulls on the head and tail at the same time. 

Another way — take a rope fifteen feet long, tie it around his 
body in a running noose, bring the loose end of the rope in between 
his fore legs, then through the ring in, the halter, and tie it to the 
manger. This plan will break the worst halter-puller there is. 

RIDING THE COLT. 

First have him well bridle-broken, then buckle a strap with a 
ring in it to one of his fore feet. Take a rope and run it through the 
ring in the foot-strap up to the girth of your saddle and tie it. Hold 
the other end in your hand and cause him to slip forward and pull the 
foot up snugly to the body. If he struggles, hold" the foot up 
strong and pull him toward you until he becomes quiet; then make 



24 



TWENTIETH CENTURY HORSE BOOK. 



the motion to mount. He will be frightened and try to get away 
from you, but by holding the foot in position you teach him to bear a 
weight on his back, and soon he will allow you to mount him. Then 
sit back further and further until you give him a trial the whole 
length of the body. Repeat the exercise a few times. If he strug- 
gles, throw him again on three legs. He will soon become quiet. 
Then commence turning him right and left, then take off the rope 
and strap and give him more practice. In a short time you will have 
him so that any one can ride him in perfect safety. 




f)»^-> 



Mode of Tying a Horse that Pulls Back. 



HOW TO START A BALKY HORSE. 



Take a small rope, tie it around his body about the flanks, bring 
the rope under the belly band on between the fore legs and tie it to 
the end of the wagon tongue. Put a stay chain on your true horse, 
speak to him to go, then your balker gets a very pressing invitation 
to go; and after you have started him this way a few times he will be 
the first to start. 

Another way. Put a strap on one of his fore feet, tie a rope to 
it, then to the end of the wagon tongue, and start your true horse — 
the balker is compelled to come. 

Another way. Take a rope twenty feet long, double it in the 
middle, put the loop under the tail, cross it over the back, bring both 
ends, one on each side of the neck, to the tongue of your vehicle, 
then he can't jump back. Start your true horse and the balker will 
come with him. 



morgan's treatment and training. 



25 




Another Way of Tying a Horse that Pulls Back. Also Shows Manner of Tying 

Rope on Balky Horse, to Attach to Wagon Tongue, Omitting 

Running through the Halter. 

Now I will show you how a horse is taught the bad habit of 
balking. Here you will again see the evil of using a "caress" at the 




Getting the Horse Accustomed to the Ropes around His Legs. 

wrong time; doubtless you have used it the same way. A horse is 
taught to balk nineteen times out of twenty, when first hitched to the 






TWENTIETH CENTURY HORSK BOOK. 



wagon. Most generally vou will see a man, if he wants to break a 
colt well, hitch him by the side of a gentle, well broken, good pulling 
horse, and not make any allowance for the colt; put on load enough 
for two well broken, good pulling horses, not thinking that the old 
horse, whom we will call "Old Reliable," would have to do all the 
work. k 'There,' ' he says, when he has finished his load, "yon can't 
run with that, young colt." He then gets on the load with his big 
whip, with a new cracker on it, in his hand, and starts his team. 
The colt lunges and pitches in the collar, for it is new to him. Well, 
"Old Reliable" takes the load, colt and all, till they come to a mud 




v^. 



s 4% 



Mm^^. 



Mode of Conquering a Vicious Horse, by Throwing Him down with the "W" At- 
tachment, Holding Him there until He Gives up. 

hole, or some bad place where it takes two good horses to get 
through. "Old Reliable" does all he can, but the colt jumps into 
the collar, and if it don't come in an instant, he flies back. "Here I 
am, stuck in the mud and that colt won't pull a pound. Well, I'll 
get down and coax him a little." So down he gets, looks all around, 
sees nothing is broken, then commences at the colt's head and car- 
esses him all over. That is, telling him he is doing just right bv 
standing still and not pulling a pound. Well, he gets up and tries it 
again; slashes away at the colt with his whip, which causes him to 
lunge and pitch, but no go. He gets down and caresses the colt 
again. The colt now thinks that he has been whipped for trying to 



morgan's treatment and training. 



27 



pull and is being caressed for standing still. The driver comes to 
the conclusion that he will unload, so off goes the load and "Old Re- 
liable' 1 pulls them out. As soon as they are on good ground the colt 
commences pulling on the single-tree to keep it from touching his 
legs. Now, he thinks he got the whipping for pulling, and of course 
thought it was wrong to pull, and forever afterward he is a balker. 
If colts are used right there will be no balky horses. Inexperienced 
drivers make balky horses. 




Showing rope around hind legs, familiarizing him with the rope, so that he will not 
be touchy should anything get against his legs by reason of something break- 
ing, or in case he gets over the traces, but will stop at the word "whoa." 



HOW TO BREAK A SWITCHER. 

What I mean by a "switcher" is a horse that will run away or 
kick when he gets the lines under his tail. When you put your horse 
in the stable at night take a piece of broom-stick about eight inches 
in length, make a hole in each end, then tie a cord in each end, put a 
surcingle on and put the stick under the tail, bringing the cords up 
to the surcingle and tying them. He will grip the stick with all his 
power and do considerable kicking and switching at first, but you 
will find him perfectly docile in the morning. He will hold up his 
tail to let the stick drop out and if after that he ever gets the lines un- 
der his tail he will hold that appendage high for fear they will stay 
under there ail dav. This will break anv of them. 



a 8 



TWENTIETH CENTURY HORSE BOOK. 



TO KEEP A HORSE FROM JUMPING. 

Take a piece of leather wide enough to cover both eyes and sew 
it around them to each side of the halter. Let it cover the eyes well; 
cut the holes in the leather for him to see through; take screen wire 
(like that used on doors to keep out flies,) sew it over the holes so 
the animal can look through the wire screen. All horses that jump 
must get their heads over the fence to see where they are going to 
jump to. When he looks over he won't jump when he has this wire 
screen on because he sees a wire fence as high as he can look. This 
will break any jumper from the habit. 




PAWING AND KICKING IN STALLS. 

Some high-strung and irritable horses are restless even in the 

stable and paw frequently and vio- 
lently. They are literally destroyed, 
the floor of the stable broken up, 
their shoes worn out, their feet 
bruised and their legs sometimes 
sprained. A horse that kicks in the 
stall or at other horses or at people 
as they pass behind him is very 7 dan- 
gerous. This simple method is a 
sure way of breaking him of this bad 
trait. Take a breast-chain or other 
piece of chain about two or two and a 
half feet long, tie or buckle around 
the hind leg if he is a kicker, and if a pawer around the fore leg, and 
when he paws or kicks the chain will wrap around his leg and soon 
teach him to quit the trick. 

TO TEACH A HORSE TO LIE DOWN. 

After having used the "W" attachment and taught the horse to 
drop on his knees, start up the left front foot to the surcingle, lead the 
horse to an old straw stack or some place where the ground is soft, 
then tie a rope in the ring on the right front foot and bring rope up 
over the shoulder. Cause the horse to start forward and by pulling 
on the rope throw him to his knees. Hold rope tight and pull him 
over. After doing this and while the horse is down caress him and 
reward him in some way for doing this. Use the controlling bridle 
in handling, also speak to him and command him to lie down, tap- 



morgan's treatment and training. 



29 



ping him on the front legs with a whip. It will not be very long un- 
til he will obey and do as you order him to do. 



SIMPLE BRIDLE. 

Take a small rope fifteen feet long, double in center over back 
of ears, bring down on each side and cross in the mouth. Bring the 

two ends back for the 
reins. This can be 
used together with the 
ordinary bridle and by 
using it no horse can 
run away. It is very 
handy in training run- 
ning horses. The only 
trouble with the bridle 
is that if the rider does 
not hold the reins 
tight the rope is lia- 
ble to drop out of the 
mouth. This can be 
overcome by tying two 
small rings, one on 
each side of the corner 
of the mouth and after 
crossing the rope in 
the mouth bringing 
the ends of the rope 
through these rings; by doing this it can be used as a permanent 
bridle. 

ANTI-KICKING OR BITTING BRIDLE. 

Take a small cotton rope, twenty-five feet long, double in the 
middle, grasp this with one hand and take up another strand of the 
rope. You will then have three strands in your hands. Take up 
one end of rope and tie around the ends of these three strands, leav- 
ing a small loop on the outside, and do so on the other end. Then 
separate these three strands and place two behind and one in front of 
ears for a brow-band. Then bring the ends of rope down through 
the mouth and up on each side of the head through the loops on 
each side of ears and back for reins. This bridle can be used as a bit- 
ting rig by having a surcingle on and fastening the reins back into 




Simple Bridle. 



3° 



TWENTIETH CENTURY HORSE BOOK. 



the surcingle, but as an anti-kicking bridle in single harness the ends 
of rope (after the bridle is made and put on) pass through the turrets 

on each side, and have 
ring put on the harness 
where the hip strap 
passes through the back 
band on top; bring both 
ends of rope through this 
ring, then bring the ends 
of the rope down and 
make fast to the shaft on 
each side. This prevents 
a horse kicking while in 
the harness, as when he 
attempts to kick up the 
rope pulls his head up, 
thereby preventing him 
kicking, as no horse can 
kick when his head is held up. This is used in connection with the 
ordinary driving bridle and does not interfere with it. 




Anti-kicking or Bitting Bridle. 



TEACHING TO SIT UP. 



After your horse lies down readily you may teach him to sit up. 
This can generally be done by using the controlling bridle, and as he 
is lying down, take a short hold and say, "sit up," and cluck to 
him. As he puts his fore feet out to get up, say "whoa, boy,' 1 and 
push back upon the bridle, which will probably stop him in that po- 
sition. Then caress him, and let him up before he gets uneasy, goes 
down or jumps up; make him lie down immediately, and repeat the 
efforts. After a few trials of this kind he will obey your command, 
and will improve very fast if you are patient and careful with him. 
Don't try to teach him to sit up on a floor covered with staw, as it 
works off and bruises his hocks. It may be necessary to use more 
force in getting your horse in a sitting position; if so, place upon him 
a strong collar, and attach to each hind leg, below the fetlocks, a nice- 
ly fitted strap with rings on. Now make him lie down and tie the 
ends of a rope fifteen feet long to the rings and pass it between his 
fore legs, draw upon the rope tightly so as to bring the hind legs well 
under him and fasten to the collar in such a way as to be easilv 
loosened. Now take him by the bridle, as at first, and say, "sit up,' 1 
and as he raises into a sitting posture, he is held there. After hold- 



morgan's treatment and training. 



3 1 



ing him in this way for a short time, make him lie down again, 
loosen the rope for a few minutes to rest him, then repeat, after 
which allow him to get up. In a few days he will obey the word of 
command quite readily. 

CONTROLLING BRIDLE. 

This bridle is used to break and control horses. By its use a* 
horse can be controlled and taught not to be afraid of any object. 

Take a small rope 
twenty feet long. 
Tie around the 
neck in the ordi- 
nary way, so that 
it will not tight- 
en around • the 
neck; passing 
loop through this 
rope around the 
neck, fasten over 
the under jaw, 
bringing end back 
over top of head, 
back of the ears. 

Pass it under the upper lip over the teeth and then back into the loop 
of the rope that passes over the head. The most vicious horse can 
be controlled by this bridle, as it is so severe, and any colt can be 
taught to lead by its use. If the horse rears up slacken the rope or 
he may go over backward and injure himself. 

TEACHING TO SAY "NO." 

Drive a strong pin through the butt end of your whip. Stand by 
his near shoulder, facing the same way as your horse, with whip 
straight up. Get his attention, and then raise the butt end of your 
whip and prick him lightly on the top of his neck, where the 
collar would rest. This will make him shake his head, for which 
you must never forget to caress. By keeping this up for a few days, 
you will have him so finely broken that he will shake his head when 
the top of the whip is dropped a little to the left of you, without even 
lifting in the least the hand holding it. No one can tell how you 
make him perform this so nicely, which is the beauty of it. It is no 




Controlling Bridle. 



32 



TWENTIETH CENTURY HORSE BOOK. 



pleasure for me to see a man perform with a horse, when I can catch 
him giving the signals. It does not show fine training. Be careful 
and don't overdo it, or you are liable to spoil the horse. 

ANTI-RUNAWAY AND ANTI-KICKING BRIDLE. 




Anti-Runaway and Anti-Kicking Bridle. 

This is put on in the same manner as the controlling bridle, 
around the neck; standing on the left side of the horse, grasp the 
rope close up to the knot that ties around neck, with right hand, take 
the left hand and pass rope over the head back of the ears, around 
through the mouth and back into the loop held in the right hand, 
pass rope back under the upper lip over the teeth. Then pass 
the rope through under the rope on right side of head and then under 
rope around the neck, then pass back through the turrets on the back 
band and into the wagon or buggy, then put on the regular driv- 
ing bridle and the bit of same will hold this rope in place. If the 
animal attempts to run or kick, by quick short jerks on the rope 
you will pull his head up and make it impossible for him to do either. 



TEACHING TO WALK UPON THE HIND LEGS. 

A horse to perform this feat well should be rather strong over the 
back and in the hind legs, or puffs or spavins are liable to be thrown 
out. Take a blunt bow-top whip, stand nearly in front of him, hold- 
ing him by the bridle or halter, so that he cannot turn from you, tap 



morgan's treatment and training. 33 

him lightly under the chin and say, "up." Should he show any 
sign of rearing, caress and repeat. You may increase the blow under 
his chin as he gets a better idea of what you want of him. When he 
will get pretty straight up you may step back coaxingly and say, 
"come boy," or cluck to him to make him take a few steps. By 
working him for a few days in this way, a little while at a time, he 
will be taught to walk off readily. 

teaching to make a bow. 

Stand close by your horse's near shoulder and hold him with 
your left hand by the bridle or halter. Take a pin in your right hand 
and at first prick him lightly in the breast, gradually increasing the 
severity until he tries to relieve himself by biting at his breast. 
Then stop and caress him. By repeating sufficiently he will bow at 
a slight prick very promptly. You may now prick him again, and at 
the same time raise your left knee nearly to his breast. This will 
make him think the knee causes him the trouble. As soon as he 
drops his head, drop your knee and repeat, each time lessening the 
height you raise it, until he will nod by raising your toe a little. No 
one can catch you at this, as people generally watch to catch you 
pointing at the horse's breast with your hand. 

TEACHING TO KISS. 

This is a nice trick if well done; but if it is necessary to put the 
hand to the face and turn the cheek to the horse, or punch him in the 
side, etc., it spoils the trick for me. First, have in your pocket some 
sugar, salt or apples. (The latter is generally best.) Commence 
feeding him bits from your hand, lifting it nearer to your face each 
time until he takes it out of your mouth. Each time say, "kiss me." 
After he readily does this, teach him he must do it, by pricking him 
lightly in the side, at the same time giving the word of command. 
After he kisses quickly by using the pin, you may give the command 
as before, and tap him with the whip and prick him, thus making 
him kiss. In a short time he thinks he must kiss or get switched. 
When I had to depend entirely on the apple, I have had my horse re- 
fuse to kiss when he did not feel apple-hungry. 

TEACHING TO GIVE YOU THINGS. 

This is a very nice trick, is easily taught, and is something you 
see at no circus. Many horses are taught to pick up things, but 



34 



TWENTIETH CENTURY HORSK BOOK. 



when the trainer wants them he has to reach and take them, which 
makes the trick appear unfinished. Prick your horse in the side 
with the right and at the same time reach the other hand toward his 
month a little and say, "hand it here," he will throw his head around 
to relieve him of the hurt, when you take the article and caress. He 
will soon turn and hand it to you when told if you will reach your 
hand toward him a little as if to take it. 

CUT SHOWING STALLION BRIDLE. 



horses off to good advantage. 



This bridle is used for handling stallions and also in showing 

Take a cotton window cord about 

twelve or fif- 
teen feet long, 
tie a running: 
loop in one 
end, put the 
loop over the 
lower jaw, 
bring long end 
of rope over 
the back of 
head, behind 
the ears, down 
along side of 
the cheek, 
then through 

loop on lower jaw. Jerking this will cause a horse to extend his 
neck, raise his head and show himself to good advantage and no 
horse can get away while the bridle is in use. This is the best bridle 
made to lead a cow or bull. 




Stallion's Bridle. 



TEACHING TO GO LAME. 



Take your horse by the bridle or halter with your left hand 
walk along with him and thump him on the shin with the butt of 
your whip and say, "lame." Hit him everv time he puts his foot on 
the ground without limping. He will soon limp at even pointing to- 
ward his leg with the whip. You may ask him anv question which 
you want him to answer by limping, and he will do so on your point- 
ing toward his legs. 



morgan's treatment and training. 35 

teaching to paw with right or left foot. 

Stand by the near side and tap him gently on the left shin .with 
the butt of the whip. He will likely stamp his foot, making a mo- 
tion as if a fly were biting him, which yon can accept as his doing 
what yon asked him by caressing. . Repeat until he will paw at the 
least motion toward him with the whip. To teach him to paw with 
the other foot, change your position in some way and at the same 
time thump him on the other shin. By having your motions distinct 
and separate he never makes any mistakes afterwards; he will paw. 
readily with either foot you are ready for. 

TEACHING THE HORSE TO ADD, SUBTRACT, MULTIPLY 

AND DIVIDE. 

Having already taught him to paw when you point toward his 
legs with the whip, you can easily make him paw any number of 
times you wish if you will never allow him to stop until you raise 
your hand that holds the whip. To teach so thoroughly that he w T ill 
stop at once, you must, at the same time you raise your hand, hit 
him a light cut over the back for a few times. Now you may ask 
him how old he is, or so and so are how many, five times this or that 
are how many, etc., and carelessly point your whip toward his leg, 
which will cause him to paw, and when he has pawed the right num- 
ber of times you will raise your whip just enough for him to see it. 
No one looking on will be liable to detect you, as they are count- 
ing too, and watching the horse at the same time. 

TEACHING THE HORSE TO PICK UP HANDKERCHIEFS. 

Stand close to his near shoulder with a pin in your right hand 
and handkerchief in your left, held close to and just under the nose, 
and prick him, gently at first, in the breast. If he even drops his 
nose, caress and repeat, and in a few minutes he will try to bite him- 
self, or you, possibly, and as he makes the attempt put the handker- 
chief in his way if possible. Often he will grab it the first thing, 
and by caressing and repeating he will generally take it from your 
hand in twenty-five or thirty minutes. Then let him stand awhile 
and work him again, each time lowering the hand which holds the 
handkerchief until he will take it from the ground. You may teach 
him to go away some distance and get it by throwing it a little 
farther each time. You can now easily teach him to pick up your 



;0 TWENTIETH CENTURY HORSE BOOK. 

whip, knife, blanket, hat or anything of the kind. After he will 
pick up things well, but drops them carelessly, yon may give him a 
cut or two with the whip and make him pick it up again. He will 
soon get afraid to drop it. 

TEACHING TO ROLL OVER. 

This is easily done now by making him lie down on a side hill 
with his feet toward the top. Tie the ends of a rope twelve feet long 
to one forward and one hind leg, stand behind and tap him on the 
back with the whip, and say, "roll over" at the same time pulling 
him over with the rope. After practicing him a few T times, take the 
rope off and practice until perfect. 

TEACHING TO KICK WITH RIGHT OR LEFT OR BOTH FEET. 

This is an easy trick to teach, and always pleases an audience. 
Place the lines and open bridle upon him, and get behind and tap 
him gently below the gambrel on the left leg and say, "kick". If he 
stamps his foot step up and caress him. Repeat, and in a few min- 
utes he will kick quite readily; then work at the other in like manner. 
In teaching him to kick with both feet, stand by his head at first, if 
he is a little nervous, and while you hold him with your left hand tap 
him gently on the hips or root of the tail, gradually increasing the 
force until he shows signs of bobbing or kicking up; then stop and 
caress. Repeat, and in a few minutes he will kick quite readily at a 
slight tap. After this you may get behind him with your lines and 
practice him awhile. By continuing this for a few days he will kick 
when commanded. 

TEACHING TO GALLOP. 

Take him by the halter or bridle with your left hand, and have a 
short, blunt whip in your right hand. As you are walking along 
with him slowly, hit him under the chin lightly at first. If he even 
throws his head up, caress him, and then repeat. Increase the blows, 
and he will soon raise both feet off the ground. You can very easilv 
work him into a nice gallop now. After this you may say to him, 
"what do you do when the ladies ride you?" then start along with 
him and give him the sign to gallop. After he goes a little way, stop 
and ask, "what do you do when the boys ride you?" taking the same 
position as when teaching him to kick with both feet, and tapping 
him on the rump. This will cause him to answer by kicking up 



morgan's treatment and training. 37 

with both feet; a performance which never fails to bring the crowd 
down with a laugh. In a short time he will do these tricks at so 
slight a motion with the whip that no one can tell how it is done, 
and will soon perform by the word. 

TEACHING TO LAUGH. 

Stand by the near side and hold him with your left hand by the 
nose about where the halter rests, and with your right force the butt 
of your whip gently into his mouth and jab him lightly in the roof. 
This will hurt him a little and make him open his mouth. You 
must say at the same time, "laugh," and caress for the least sign of 
obeying the command. Now put the halter on him, take hold of it a 
foot or two from his head, give the command and jab him lightly in 
the mouth as before. By this method he will laugh in a short time at 
the least motion toward him with the butt of the whip. 

TO PREVENT A HORSE FROM SCARING. 

This process is very simple. Whenever a horse scares at objects 
on going along the road, always stop him and let him face the object. 
Lead him slowly toward it, and let him touch it with his nose. Take 
the pains to do this on every occasion, and it will soon break him en- 
tirely. If your horse is frightened at an umbrella, you can soon teach 
him to get used to that. Go into the stable with him, and first let 
him look at the umbrella before it is opened — let him touch it with 
his nose. Open it a little way and let him see it, and finally open it 
wide. By ordinary patience you can soon teach the horse to have the 
umbrella opened suddenly in his face without being afraid of it. By 
a similar treatment you can break any horse from scaring at almost 
anything that may look frightful to him. If you wish to make a trial 
of this theory, just take a horse into the stable and let him examine 
the frightful object a few minutes, after his mode of examining 
things, and you will be perfectly satisfied. There is a singular fact 
connected with taming the horse that I would never have believed if I 
had not tried it. If you accustom him to any particular object by show- 
ing it to him on one side only, he will not be afraid when he sees it 
with the eye on that side, but he will be afraid if you approach him 
with it on the other side. It is therefore necessary to pacify him on 
both sides in all cases. After you have accustomed him to the um- 
brella or whatever you may wish to make him familiar with, on his 
right side, repeat the operation on the left side, in the same manner 
as if you had not approached him at all. 



;S TWENTIETH CENTURY HORSE BOOK. 



BLINDS OR BUNKERS. 

All my experience with, and observation of horses, proves clear- 
ly to me that blinkers should never be used, and that the sight of the 
horse, for many reasons, should not be interfered with in any way. 
Horses are only fearful of objects which they do not understand, or 
are not familiar with, and the eye is one of the principal mediums by 
which this understanding and this familiarity are brought about. 
The horse, on account of his very amiable nature, can be made in the 
course of time to bear almost anything in any shape; but there is a 
quicker process of reaching his intelligence than that of wearing it 
into him through his skin and bones. However wild or nervous a horse 
may be, he can be taught in a very short time to understand and not 
to fear any object, however frightful in appearance. Horses can be 
broken in less time, and better, without blinkers; but horses that 
have always worn them will notice the sudden change, and must be 
treated carefully the first drive. After that they will drive better 
without the blinkers than with them. I have proved by my own ex- 
perience that a horse broken without blinkers can be driven past any 
omnibus, cab or carriage, on a parallel line as close as it is possible 
for him to go, without ever wavering or showing any disposition to 
dodge. I have not in the last seventeen years, constantly handling 
horses, both wild and nervous, ever put blinkers on any of them. 

The horse's eye is the life and beauty of the animal, as well as 
the index of all his emotions. It tells the driver, in the most im- 
pressive characters, what the horse's feelings are. By it he can tell 
the first approach of fear in time to meet any difficulty; he can tell if 
he is happy or sad, hungry or weary. The horse, too, when permit- 
ted to see, uses his eyes with great judgment. He sees better than 
we do. He can measure distances with his eves better than we can, 
and, if allowed the free use of them, would often save himself, by the 
quickness of his sight, from collisions when the driver would fail to 
do so by a timely pull on the reins. It would also save many acci- 
dents to pedestrians in the streets, as no horse will run on any person 
that he can see. Blinkers are rapidly going out of use in the United 
States, and I have yet to find the man who, having once left them off, 
could ever be persuaded to put them on again. They are an unneces- 
sary and injurious incumbrance to the horse, and in years hence will 
be a thing to be read of as one of the follies happily reformed in the 
twentieth century. The only horse on which blinds should be placed 
is a blind horse, to hide his defective eyes. That, in fact, is what the 



morgan's treatment and training. 



39 



first blinds were used for. Many years ago, .in London, wealthy people 
whose horses had bad eyes, put on blinds, and the common people, 
who think they have to imitate everything the wealthy do, followed 
the example, and thus a foolish fad was established. 




ADVICE ABOUT FEEDING. 

Feed your horse an hour and a half before he begins his day's 
work. Give him his largest feed at night. If you can possibly af- 
ford it, give him a box stall where he can rest 
at ease, as it is really a cruelty to tie him up 
so as to prevent his lying down as he 
chooses. The stall should be dry and well lit- 
tered. Never give your horse hard water to 
drink if soft water can be had. If you cannot 
get soft water, draw the hard water from the 
well two hours before you let him drink it. Do 
not feed different kinds of feed at one time. If 
corn and bran are fed together, the horse will 
swallow the corn without properly grinding it. 
The best way to feed corn is on the ear. If shelled, the grain should 
be cracked — about five pieces to the grain. Oats should also be fed 
alone, never mixed with bran unless the oats are ground. Do not feed 
your horse too much hay, as it is not only a waste, but when he is 
put to work on an overloaded stomach it endangers his wind. 

If left to pull hay out of the rack at pleasure, a horse will eat 
and waste some thirty pounds a day; whereas twenty pounds is 
enough for twenty-four hours. Horses, when worked hard, should 
have a noon feed of grain and water — no hay. Never water your 
horses after they eat. It washes the food from the stomach. Water 
before feeding. By following these rules your horses will always be 
in good condition — will not have that swelled belly peculiar to ani- 
mals who are allowed to fill their stomachs with hay — and will us- 
ually enjoy good health. Especial care should be taken to see that 
the manger is kept clean, as a filthy and dirty manger breeds dis- 
ease. It pays to keep stock clean. Avoid feeding damaged feed of 
any kind; better give less of first-class. Poor feed is dear, for noth- 
ing. Never allow your barn to become filthy from stinking bedding 
or fermenting manure, for the ammonia and foul atmosphere arising 
from the decomposition have a bad effect on the eyes and health. If 
you have a long drive to make, do not feed your horses hay the night 
before. 



4° TWENTIETH CENTURY HORSE BOOK. 



HORSES HAVE RIGHTS— RESPECT THEM. IT WILL PAY YOU. 

The horse is not a creator of power, but simply a machine. Pow- 
er is put into the locomotive by fuel; into the horses by good food. 
Neither can supply one particle more power than is furnished it 
No machine better repays thorough care than the horse. Overwork 
under feeding, neglect and abuse are costly mistakes, and have re- 
duced the average life of the horse from thirty to fifteen years in- 
curring millions of loss; add the losses from sickness, lameness and ac- 
cidents due to the same cause, and we get the cost of cruelty to ani- 
mals. Ownership has limitations and includes no right to neglect 
torment or mutilate horses. They have a right to good food, kind 
care and to be as happy as their masters. It is never wise to do 
wrong; neither is it a good policy to starve, overwork or abuse a 
horse. The horse is far more intelligent than many suppose A 
kind word is sometimes as good as a feed of oats. A aentle tone 
caresses, praise, gifts of dainties, render him safer and more obedient' 
Harsh treatment keeps him nervous and in misery. Almost every 
wrong act of a horse is caused by fear, excitement and mismanage- 
ment, and one harsh word will increase the pulse of a nervous horse 
eight or ten beats a minute. No man should swear or curse at his 
horse. An unhappy, terrorized and hungry horse, or one in distress 
from blows, strains, short check reins, or misfit harness, cannot do his 
best, and is just so much disabled. The ignorance and depravity of 
drivers is at the foundation of most troubles. Cruelty is costly. 

HOW TO FIND THE DEFECTS IN A HORSE. 

When you are buying or trading for a horse, first examine the 
eyes well. The best judges are sometimes deceived in the eves 
therefore you cannot be too careful. Clearness of the eye is a sure in- 
dication of their goodness; but this is not all that should be observed 
The eyelids, eyebrows, and all other parts must be considered- for 
many horses whose eyes appear clear and brilliant go blind at seven 
or eight years old. Therefore, be careful to observe whether the 
partsjDetween the eyelids and eyebrows are free from bunches and 
whether the parts round the under eyelids be full or swelled for 'these 
are indications that the eyes will not last. When the eves are re- 
markably flat, or sunk within their orbits, it is a bad sign; 'also when 
they look dead and lifeless. The iris, or circle that surrounds the sid.t 
of the eye, should be distinct, and of a pale cinnamon color, for this 
is always a sure sign of a good eye, and it adds beatitv to the appear- 



morgan's treatment and training. 41 

ance of the animal. Occasionally you will find a horse with eyes that 
look good, but are not. Such a horse is what is called a "blinker, " 
and may be easily told by pressing the finger on the closed eyelid. 
The eyeball should feel firm, but. if it is soft you will know it is a bad 
eye. A good way to examine a horse's eye is to take him into a 
stable and turn his face to the light. As you lead him into the stable, 
watch him. If blind he will step high, and throw his ears forward as 
as if listening to what is in front of him. Some traders will walk up 
in front of a horse and make a motion with their hand as if about to 
strike the horse in the face, and claim he can see good, because he 
jerks his head back at the approach of the hand; but in fact a blind 
horse will move quicker for such a motion than a horse that can see 
well, for the blind horse feels the moving air, and jerks because he 
cannot see just what is approaching his face. If you have the slight- 
est suspicion concerning the eye of a horse you think of buying, look 
critically at his eyes, and then exclaim, u Here, what's the matter 
with this eye?" "A guilty conscience needs no accuser," and if there 
is anything the matter the owner will begin to explain at once. If 
there is anything wrong with a horse, it is hard for the owner to keep 
his eyes off the spot where the trouble is, so watch the owner care- 
fully, and his glances will soon tell you where to look for a 
blemish. 

In the next place, examine the teeth and the mouth, as you 
would not wish to purchase an old horse, nor a very young one, for 
service. , He may have long teeth, decayed or irregular teeth, or 
possibly has lost many of his grinders. He may have tumors in his 
mouth, or a tongue that has been cut and is badly swollen. Often a 
part of the tongue has been cut off. 

The feet should next be regarded; for a horse with bad feet is 
like a house with a weak foundation, and will do little service. The 
feet should be smooth and tough, of a middle size, without wrinkles, 
and neither too hard and brittle, nor too soft; the heels should be 
firm, and not spongy and rotten; the frogs horny and dry; the soles 
somewhat hollow, like the inside of a dish or bowl. Such feet will 
never disappoint your expectations, and such only should be chosen. 

Particular regard should be had to the shoulders. They should 
not be too much loaded, for a horse with heavy shoulders can never 
move well, and, on the other hand, one that has very thin shoulders 
and a narrow chest > though he may move briskly so long as he is 
sound, yet he is generally weak, and easily lamed in the shoulders; a 
medium should therefore be chosen. 



42 TWENTIETH CENTURY HORSE BOOK. 



The body should neither be too large nor too small. The back 
should be straight, or have only a moderate sinking below the withers; 
for when the back of a horse is low, or higher behind than before, it 
is both very ugly and a sign of weakness. The back should also be a 
proper length. The ribs should be large, the flanks smooth and full, 
and the hind-parts, or uppermost haunches, not higher than the 
shoulders. When the horse trots before you, observe if his haunches 
cover his fore knees. A horse with a short hind-quarter does not 
look well. 

The next thing to be regarded in a horse is his wind, which may 
be easily judged of by the motion of the flanks. A broken-winded 
horse also pinches in his flanks, with very slow motion, and drops 
them suddenly, which may be easily perceived. Many horses breathe 
thick that are not broken-winded; indeed, any horse will in foggy 
weather, or if foul fed, without sufficient exercise; but if a horse has 
had good keeping and proper exercise, and yet has these symptoms, 
there is some defect, either natural or accidental, such as a narrow 
chest, or some cold that has affected the lungs. To make sure that 
his wind is good lope him up hill for about a hundred yards. Stop 
him suddenly and listen to his breathing. If he is a roarer you can 
hear a snoring sound. To test for heaves take hold of his throat and 
squeeze it; if troubled that way he will cough. 

There are other particulars that should be observed in choosing a 
horse. If his head be large and fleshy, and his neck thick and gross, 
he will always go heavy on the hand, and therefore such should never 
be chosen. A horse that has his hocks very wide, seldom moves well, 
and one that has them too near will chafe and cut his legs by cross- 
ing them. Fleshy-legged horses are generally subject to the grease- 
heel and other infirmities of that kind, and therefore should not be 
chosen. 

Never buy a horse with the harness on. Have him stripped of 
everything. He may be a wiggler, weak in the back, and yet be 
braced up with the breeching so as to walk straight. A saddle may 
hide a bad sway back, or a very large sore. A wide girth may con- 
ceal a bad rupture or ugly sore. A collar may hide a fistula or crest 
falling, or a bad wire cut on the shoulder. Have him move, turn- 
ing quickly to right and left. Look under the tail for tumors — old 
gray or white horses have tumors under the tail and around the rec- 
tum. Examine the groin for running sores and tumors from bad 
castration, and look for tumors in the sheath and on the penis. In a 



morgan's treatment and training. 43 

mare examine the vagina — she may be ruptured or have tumors. Also 
see that her milk bag is all right — it may have been spoiled. 

The temper of a horse should be particularly noticed. Avoitl a 
fearful horse, which you may know at first sight by his starting, 
crouching, or creeping, if you approach him. A hot and fretful 
horse is also to be avoided, but the buyer should be careful to dis- 
tinguish between a hot, fretful horse, and one that is eager and crav- 
ing. The former begins to fret the moment he is out of the stable, 
and continues in that humor until he has quite fatigued himself; and 
the latter only endeavors to be foremost in the field, and is truly valu- 
able; he has those qualities that resemble prudence and courage; the 
other, those of intemperate heat and rashness. 

A horse that goes with his fore feet low is very apt to stumble; 
and there are some that go so near the ground that they stumble most 
on even roads; and the dealers, to remecly this, put heavy shoes on 
their feet, for the heavier a horse's shoes are, the higher he will lift 
his feet. Care should also be taken that the horse does not cut one 
leg with the other. A horse that goes near the ground will cut the 
low side of the fetlock joint, but one that goes high cuts below the 
knee, which is called the speedy cut. A horse that lifts his feet high, 
generally trots fast, but is not the easiest for the rider. Some horses 
cut with the spur of the foot, and some with the heel, but this you 
may soon perceive by their standing; for if a horse points the front of 
the foot inward, he cuts with the spur; and if outward, with the heel. 

Dishonest traders sometimes have ingenious ways of making 
some serious defects appear to be slight and recent injuries. For in- 
stance, they will take a knife and make a fresh cut right over a 
bone spavin or ringbone, and claim that the animal got cut on a wire 
or nail and that the cut is what produced the lump and lameness. 
Or, if a horse is suffering from lameness they will bore a hole in the 
bottom of his foot and claim that he had stepped on a nail the day be- 
fore. They claim the reason they are anxious to trade is because 
they have a long trip to make, and cannot wait even a few days for 
the horse to get over his lameness. A slippery horse trader always 
has a plausible excuse for every defect or blemish. 

These few instructions may be of use in purchasing horses, but I 
advise every one to get some experimental knowledge of them before 
he trusts his own judgment, for the dealers have so many arts to hide 
the defects of their horses, that the best judges are often deceived. 



"Blessed are the merciful, for they shall obtain mercy." 



44 TWENTIETH CENTURY HORSE BOOK. 



JOCKEY'S TRICKS. 

ceiyhZ^^ T^ ^ m **™ s «<& and devices for de- 
Zlfrickst' a , T be! ° W qUUe a " Ulnber ° f the - None of 

Ind I onlv o 1 V a b ° rSe a " d Some of them are harmful, 
and I only glve them so the readef may fae on ^ ^ ^.^ ^ 

HOW TO MAKE A HORSE KICK AND BUCK WITHOUT PUTTING A 

HAND ON HIM. 

Pour about two drachms of bi-sulphide of carbon on him This 

ml r Therf : bU f f ° r aU that ' S ^ him - The ^ the i-keys work 
farmer a J 00 ^ T7 '" ° f them in *' and ° ne of th «« "ades a 

r s around o°°tb ln f ' "?t " ^ ""* aftemard the ° ther one 

he tate S "^ I " f « mer « n «i inters him for a trade. The fanner 

kicker a„r a 1 J° if 'T ^ that he k " WS the horse to be a 
While ih^ I % ' Ut th ° Ugllt th3t he COuld cure him, may-be 

1 ndthe ar h mer V*- l0Oking ' thC Sm ° 0th ^ P° U « °« the'ca " 
bon, and he horse begins at once to kick everything to pieces The 

that has fits rtZ \° r HOthln8: - He don,t want a ho^e 

has fits. This works on the goats, cows and dogs the same way. 

HOW TO KEEP A HORSE EROM EATING WHEN YOU HAVE PLENTY 

BEFORE HIM. 

his fe^" w\ fr iT teeth Wkh mUtt ° n t3ll0W and he wi » « touch 
ins teed. Wash the grease off, and he will eat. 

RESTORATIVE LIQUID. 

ounj'oil ofaP 6 ^T '" ** " ^ dead - Take oil ° f ^^ one 
ounc el of anlse . seed Qne ^^ fc ^ 

t norfiT ar J° ne ° UnCe - Shak£ Wdl ' a " d h is - ^r use. Sve 
ten or fifteen drops m a bucket once a day. 

HOW TO REMOVE WHITE MARKS. 

They are caused by a scald of the saddle or harness- scald fb P 
same as in producing the white mark, and grease with Z'. 



morgan's treatment and training. 45 

to hide the defects in a horse that is wind broken. 

Drench with one pint of fresh beef's blood and one pint of lard. 
This hides it from seven to ten days. 

TO MAKE A HORSE BLIND. 

Give him four tablespoonfuls of unparched coffee in his feed. 
This affects the optic nerve and the membranes of the eye, by di- 
lating the pupil. This blindness lasts from three to five days. 

HOW TO MAKE A HORSE LAME. 

Take a small needle and run a horse hair through the front leg 
between the tendon, cut the hair close to the skin, and by morning 
he will be so lame he can hardly walk. All you have to do is to take 
out the hair and he is all right again. 

HOW TO START A BALKY HORSE. 

Take half an ounce of chloroform in a sponge and hold to his 
nose till he begins to nod. 

Another way: Throw red pepper in his eyes. 

HOW TO MAKE A HORSE LOOK AS IF HE IS FOUNDERED. 

Tie a silk thread around each leg, close to the ankle, under the 
hair. This will make him walk as though he was foundered. 

HOW TO MAKE A TRUE HORSE BALK. 

Take a half-ounce of tartar emetic and put in a pint of water and 
mix it. Bathe his shoulders with it. Next morning he will not pull 
a pound. When you have tried the trick, just grease the shoulders 
with lard, and he will soon be ready to pull again. 

HOW TO MAKE WHITE SPOTS COME ON A HORSE. 

Take a raw potato, cut it in halves, put the face on a hot stove 
and let it get red hot; then place it on your horse where you want the 
white spot, and the next spring the white spot will be just where you 
held the potato. 

HOW TO DRY UP AN OLD SORE IN ORDER TO TRADE OFF 

YOUR HORSE. 

Use burnt alum and calomel. 



4° TWENTIETH CENTURY HORSE BOOK. 



HOW TO DOPE A HORSE FOR TRADE. 

For the first two days give one-half ounce of "Fowler's solution" 
of arsenic, twice daily, then increase slowly to one ounce twice daily 
—and feed nourishing- food, such as crushed corn and oats, mixed 
with cut hay and straw well steamed; this will fatten a horse in from 
ten days to four weeks. 

HOW TO MAKE A HORSE LOOK AS THOUGH HE HAD GLANDERS. 

Take good, fresh butter and warm it so it will pour easily; then 
pour both ears full. For the next twenty-four hours your horse will 
run at the nose and look as if he had a bad case of glanders. 

HOW TO MAKE SHAKY KNEES STRONG AND STRAIGHT LONG ENOUGH 

TO TRADE YOUR HORSE. 

Make a rope out of oat straw, and bind his legs from the hoof up 
past the knees, then soak the rope with alcohol. 

HOW TO TRADE A RUPTURED MARE. 

If you have a mare that has been ruptured by having a colt, and 
want to trade her off, fill the opening with powdered alum. This 
will keep her from making a noise. 

REMEDY TO SHUT DOWN HEAVES IN ORDER TO TRADE A HORSE. 

Give the following prescription: 

Raw Linseed Oil x q Uar t 

Fluid Extract Aloes ; . . iy 2 ounces 

Calomel i drachm 

Mix and give as one dose. 

This should be given the night before taking him for trading 
and no hay should be fed, only grain. This will not injure the horse' 
Be careful m letting the animal to water, as filling up on water 
will bring on the trouble. 

TO HIDE HOLLOW PLACES ON A SWEENIED SHOULDER OR OYER 

THE EYES. 

Make a small hole through the skin on the shoulder, and alter- 
nately raise and depress the skin until the air fills the hollow space 
Some jockeys insert a quill and blow the air in. Hollows over the 
eyes may be filled in the same way. 



morgan's treatment and training. 47 

trader's liniment. 

One ounce camphor, one ounce oil of stone, one ounce oil of 
spike, one ounce hartshorn, one and one-half ounces oil organum; in 
one pint of alcohol. This is good for almost anything. 

TO RAISE THE COURAGE OF A STALLION OR JACK. 

Give him. two ounces fluid extract damiana. 

HOW TO MAKE A HORSE CARRY A NICE TAIL AND PRANCE AROUND 

WHEN TAKEN OUT TO BE SHOWN. 

Take a small pod of red pepper, remove the seeds, and place on 
a small stick and run it up into the rectum; this will make a horse 
carry his tail proud and prance. 

A HORSE HAVING A LAME LEG OR SORENESS IN THE LEG. 

Inject a solution of cocoaine, containing about three grains, into 
the place caused from spavin, ringbone, or any chronic lameness. 

HOW TO REMOVE OLD BRANDS ON HORSES. 

Rub pure croton oil all over the brand and let it stay for 24 
hours. This will make a violent blister. Then grease well with 
olive oil, and keep well greased for ten days. 

HOW TO DETECT A HORSE DOPED FOR HEAVES. 

Lead to a trough and allow him to drink his fill of water, and 

then let him eat hay for one hour, and the symptoms will soon de- 

velope. 

HOW TO TELL THE AGE OF THE HORSE. 

Giving age from* fourteen days to twenty-one years: 

Fourteen days old — Four nippers. 

Three months old — Four middle. 

Six months old — Four corner. 

One year — Cups leave nippers. 

Two years — Cups leave middles. 

Two and a half years — Sheds nippers. 

Three years — Full sized nippers. 

N Nippers. Three and a half years — Sheds middles. 

M — Middles. Four years — Full sized middles. 

*- Corner Teeth. Four and a half years — Sheds corners. 

Five years — Full sized corners. Ten years — Groove in upper corner. 

Six years — Large cups in corners. Fifteen years — Groove half-way down up- 

Seven years — Cups leave nippers. per corner. 

Eight years — Cups leave middles. Twenty-one years — Groove reaches bottom 

Nine years — Cups leave corners. of upper corner. 




48 TWENTIETH CENTURY HORSE BOOK. 

This is the best way of telling the horse's age. It will enable 
any stockman to buy and sell horses. This will work in nine out of 
ten cases, the only difference being, the teeth of those horses that 
have been raised on grass are not worn as much as of those that have 
been fed dry food. The grass-fed horse will always look youngei 
than he really is, unless he has been grazing on sandy soil. 

Artificial marks are sometimes made in the. lower nippers by 
jockeys, in order to deceive the purchaser in regard to the animal's 
age. This operation is of English origin, and is thus described by 
Youatt: "It is called bishoping, from the name of the man who in- 
vented it. The horse of eight or nine years old is thrown, and with 
an engravers tool, a hole is dug in the now almost plain surface of the 
corner teeth, and in shape and depth it resembles the mark in a seven 
or eight-year-old horse. The hole is then burned with a heated iron, 
and a permanent black stain is left. The next pair of nippers are 
sometimes lightly touched. An ignorant man could be very easily 
imposed on by this trick, but the irregular appearance of the cavity, 
the diffusion of the black stain around the tushes, the sharpened 
edges and concave inner surface of which can never be given again, 
the marks on the upper nippers, together with the general conforma- 
tion of the horse, can never deceive the careful examiner. As the 
horse grows older the teeth diminish in size, and this commencing in 
their width and their thickness, they become a little apart, and their 
surface are rounded." 



FACTS WORTH REMEMBERING. 



A kicker should be checked high and not whipped. 

Do not be in any hurry in handling the colt, and always be kind. 
When he does right give him credit by a kind word and caress. 

The whip should be feared rather then felt. 

In choosing a horse to train easily, select one with a full and 
well developed brain. 

Never allow yourself to get angry or frightened. 

Do not leave a horse facing a cold wind. 

Checking horses high makes slow walkers, bad wind and often 
shoulder lameness. 

Handle the colt when he is young. Commence at a week old 
and teach him to be led and hitched by the halter. Handle his legs 



morgan's treatment and training. 49 



and teach him not to kick. You can do it at this age better, easier 
and safer than when he gets old, strong and stubborn. Bit him, har- 
ness, and teach him to drive at two years old, but be sure not to over- 
drive or tire while young. 

Certain leading principles already indicated in these chapters 
have been constantly kept in view in the preparation of this work. 
An epitome of these principles will probably prove of material assist- 
ance, to many readers, and as it will occupy but little space, it is here 
introduced: 

The horse is naturally a wild animal, his condition of domesti- 
cation being really one of slavery. 

His wild or native state is that in which he attains the most per- 
fect development of his natural powers. 

Like the human family, the species were originally divided into 
distinct races, which providence designed should be kept separate for- 

In their wild state, the different races dispersing in droves do not 
mingle together, and if they were left to follow the instincts of na- 
ture, intermixture would never occur. 

The horse is not naturally a diseased animal. He is subject to 
extremely few hereditary disorders, or, perhaps to none. But indis- 
criminate commingling of blood has fearfully multiplied the diseases 
to which he is subject, and occasioned deplorable degeneracy. 

Improper treatment and abuse at the hands of man have been the 
cause of nearly all his diseases and of his great decay as regards long- 
evity and natural capabilities. 

The horse is improved and becomes more efficient as his circum- 
stances are brought nearer his condition by nature and his wants are 
better understood and supplied. 

The horse is more like man as regards general structure and the 
pathology of his diseases than any other animal. 

As a rule, though not without some exception, the causes of dis- 
ease in man operate similarly upon the horse, and the same remedies 
are equally efficacious for both. 

The size of the horse is ten times that of man. His organism is 
coarser, and the vessels of his system are larger. In proportion, 
when medicines are administered, they must be of corresponding 

strength. 

Compared with man the horse breathes only half as fast. 

The fewer medicines given the horse, provided the cure is ef- 
fected, the better. Thousands of valuable animals are killed yearly 
bv excessive drenching. 



SO TWENTIETH CENTURY HORSE BOOK. 

IMPRESS THE MIND OF THE CHILD WITH 

KINDNESS. 



The reader has doubtless discovered before this that the author 
believes devoutly in being kind to animals, and particularly to the 
horse, for both humane reasons and the fact that it pays. And he 
wishes to impress strongly the need of teaching children to be kind to 
everv one of God's creatures, not only for the reasons given, but for 
the equally important one — the effect on the character and life of the 
child. A boy that delights in maiming or killing birds and small an- 
imals, or tormenting a kitten or a dog, is developing traits of cruelty 
and lack of feeling, and such habits if encouraged or not properly 
checked at the right time, have a brutalizing effect on the character 
of the child, and frequently grow into criminality. Teach your child- 
ren kindness while they are young and teachable, and they will grow 
into kind-hearted men and women — the only kind who do any good 
for humanity. 

Some parents are delighted when they see their child tormenting 
or hurting an animal and encourage the child in it. Such parents 
are ''breeding trouble" for themselves and their children, for it helps 
to develop the vicious tendencies which in later years make the mean, 
cruel criminal. Hon. Geo. T. Angell has stated that in going 
through the penitentiary at Sing Sing he asked each convict if eh 
had had pets — dogs, rabbits, etc. — when a child, and in almost every 
case the answer was, "No they had no use for pets." A child with 
pets has some care on his mind, and it takes care to develop useful 
manhood. Encourage the children to have something of this sort, 
and to treat it kindly and thoughtfully. A good, kind, gentle charac- 
ter is more to be desired than all the education that can be crammed 
into the mind by a full college course. I would like to say much 
more on this subject, but it is probably unnecessary. If you are a 
thinking person you will see the force of the above statements, and if 
you are not a whole book would not convince you of the importance 
of this subject. 



"The merciful man doeth good to his own soul, but he that is cruel troubleth his 
own flesh." 





Class of Prof. Morgan's at Troup, Tex. 



■ ■ 

■■■; ■ ■ ::■,. m 




Class of Prof. Morgan's at Rusk, Tex. 





Class of Prof. Morgan's at Jacksonville, Tex. 



morgan's treatment and training. 



5 1 



THE HORSE'S TEETH AND THEIR DISEASES, 



My experience is, that more horses die from diseased teeth than 
all the rest of diseases combined. Not from the disease of the tooth 
or pain, but from the effects of them. The upper jaw of a horse 
overhangs the lower jaw from two to two and one-half inches. Thus 




Haussman & Dunn's Mouth Speculum. 

the horse must have a side motion in order to masticate his food. If 
the teeth are sharp on the outside of the upper ones, or on the inside 
of the lower ones, the upper ones will cut the inside of the jaw, 
and the lower ones will cut the tongue, causing fever in the mouth, 
thereby causing a horse to slobber. If there is a rotten or a long 
tooth in the mouth, this prevents proper mastication, and the food, 
therefore, is not in suitable condition to enter the stomach for digest- 
ion. The digestive organs will digest the food properly for a while, 
but the overtaxing these organs from food that is not properly masti- 
cated causes them to wear and become weakened, and therefore un- 
able to perform their proper functions, and from this arises various 
diseases. The kidneys, liver and other organs become affected, caus- 
ing colic, kidney troubles, impure blood and all manner of constitu- 
tional diseases. These diseases will result in death to the animal, 
but no doubt arises but that the diseased teeth are the primary cause 
of death. There are hundreds of people who suffer from indigestion, 
and this is brought on from neglect of the teeth. They have the ad- 



5-' 



TWENTIETH CENTURY HORSE BOOK. 




A Horse Suffering Se 

vere Pain, such as 

Toothache. 



vantage of the horse in that their food is cooked and in better shape 
tor digestion, but the poor horse's food is thrown in the feed-box care- 
lessly, and it frequently happens that nails, small stones and other 
hard substances are mixed with the feed and he takes them up — 

thus causing the teeth to become cracked. 
This, of course, will cause the teeth to become 
diseased. Every living creature that has 
teeth suffers more or less with toothache, but if 
they are left in their natural state, they will 
not suffer so much from this trouble. It is not 
natural for a horse to be kept in a stable and 
eat dry food only; his natural state is roving 
over the plains of Asia, South America or this 
country, and eating nothing but grass and 
herbs. There is a vast difference between the 
teeth of the human and those of the horse. When a man stops grow- 
ing, his teeth are matured and do not grow any more, but it is not so 
with the horse. His teeth continue to grow as long as he lives. The 
tooth of the horse has a continuous pulp. His teeth grow like those 
of a squirrel. If a squirrel did not gnaw, the teeth would grow out 
and protrude through the top of 
the head. I have seen horse's 
teeth five and one-half inches 
long. If a horse's tooth loses its 
antagonizer, it will continue to 
grow and will make its way into 
the bone of either the upper or 
lower jaw. There is a great dif- 
ference between the enamel of 
a human tooth and that of a 
horse. The enamel on the hu- 
man tooth is a thin layer on the 
outside of the tooth, while in 
the tooth of the horse, the 
enamel grows through the 
crown, with little islands of den- 
tine. In the abnormal growth 
of the tooth it will extend down Example of Bighead? caused by ulcerated 

through the center of the same, teeth in u Pper and lower jaws. The ab- 

, , . scess formed above and broke out in the 

and tUlS causes a great many eye, completely destroying it. I removed 

dentists ( I mean those who the teeth ' but lt was to ° late to effect a 

cure. 




morgan's treatment and training. 



53 





Plate No. 2. 



Plate No. i 



practice on the human teeth,) to ask if the operation of cutting off 
these long teeth did not cause them to decay and become diseased. 
Mv answer has already been ill the negative, as from the reason al- 
ready given, the enamel extending 
as it does down through the tooth, 
assists in protecting it. 

When the enamel on the human 
teeth becomes broken, if it was 
made perfectly smooth, so there 
would be no rough surface left 
where germs could locate them- 
selves, there would be no trouble 
from decay. 

The milk, or baby teeth of the 
horse cause a great deal of harm 
when they stay on too long, by 
bringing on enlargement of the 
head. They should be watched 
and pulled out. Nine-tenths of 
the big-headed horses are caused by these teeth. 

In plate No. i, figures 
number one, two and 
three show where the 
caps have shed off. 

Plate No. 2 shows the 
head of a three-year-old 
colt that it was claimed 
died from big-head and 
had gone blind from 
blind teeth. The true 
cause was from failing to 
shed the caps off of the 
baby teeth. When the 
permanent teeth were 
growing they met with 
resistance from these 
caps, and this caused 

-r-r -. r „ , ^, , . , them to grow back into 

Head of a Colt, two years old. The tumor, which ° 

resembled a large bloody wart, was caused by an the head, and it can be 

ulcerated tooth. Tumor had been cut off but came i Vu 1" +V, 

on again. I removed the tooth and it got well. seen "Y tne lme on tne 




54 



TWENTIETH CENTURY HORSE BOOK. 



face where I have removed the bone, so as to expose the roots of the 
teeth. The first molar of this head had grown through into the nasal 
cavity and had caused an abscess to form, which discharged a very 
offensive pus from the nostrils. The cause of his losing his eyes w r as 
that the lachrymal duct that runs from the corner of the eye into the 
nostrils was closed from the enlargement of these diseased teeth and 
could not properly drain the eye. This caused the eye to inflame and 
this inflammation soon destroys the eye. The treatment is to remove 
the caps and allow the permanent teeth to grow under their proper 
places. ■ Blister the face over the enlargement and use an eyewater in 
the eves. 




HOW TO OPEN A HORSE'S MOUTH FOR EXAMINATION. 

Put a halter on. Grasp the halter with the left hand and then 
with the right hand grasp the tongue and pull it out to one side of 
the mouth. Then place the thumb of the left hand against the bars 
in the roof of the mouth. This will cause the animal to open his 
mouth and allow an examination. If you examine the other side of 
the mouth, reverse the tongue and proceed as before. 

HOW TO EXAMINE THE TEETH OF HORSES WITH THE HAND. 



Have a halter on as in the cut. Run the hand into the mouth 
between the front and back teeth from the side. If vou wish to ex- 



morgan's treatment and training. 



55 



amine the teeth on the right side of the month, run the right hand 
alongside of the tongue with the back of the hand against it, push- 
ing the tono-ne over on the lower teeth on the left side of the mouth, 




Examining the Teeth with the Hand. 

thus preventing the horse from closing the mouth on the hand, as 
any attempt to do so causes him to bite his tongue. To examine the 
other side of the mouth use the left hand and proceed as with the 
right. The danger is in putting the hand into the mouth and taking 
out. Never draw the hand straight out between the front teeth, as 
the animal may close down and bite the hand quite severely. Al- 
ways pull to one side or the other. 




Dental Hook for Examining Teeth. 



WOLF OR BLIND TEETH. 

Very erroneous opinions are entertained, even by veterinary sur- 
geons, concerning these teeth; and various theories have, from time to 
time, been set afloat regarding them, arising, in most instances, from 
a lack of proper investigation. They are not harmful in the least to 
colts; but when a horse that is to wear a bit has them in his mouth, 
the bit irritates them and it is best to pull them out. 



56 



TWENTIETH CENTURY HORSE BOOK. 




Examining for Diseased Teeth. 



LAMPERS. 



This term is used to designate a fullness or swelling of the roof of 
the mouth, caused by the cutting of teeth. Lampers will be found in 
all colts, although in many, the slight inconvenience it causes at- 
tracts little or no attention. In others, however, the tenderness of 
the swollen parts causes the animal to refuse his food. All that is 
necessary is to lance the swollen parts — a common pocket-knife will 
do — and he will be all right in a few days. Be careful not to cut too 
far back — the safest place being between the first and second bars. 
Give a laxative, as this trouble is often caused by constipation. Do 
not burn the bars in the roof of the mouth, as they are an assistance 
to the horse in preventing the food from dropping out, and are used to 
carry the food into the throat. 

TEETHING — A CRITICAL PERIOD OF THE COLT'S LIFE. 



Horsemen, in general, think too lightly of the teething, and the}' 
scarcely dream of the animal suffering to any considerable degree, or 
absolute illness being produced; yet he who has to do with young 
horses will frequently discover a considerable degree of febrile affec- 
tion that can be referred to this alone. Fever, cough, catarrhal af- 
fections generally, disease of the eyes, cutaneous affections, diarrhea 
and dysentery, loss of appetite and general derangement will fre- 
quently be traced by the careful observer to irritation from teething. 



morgan's treatment and training. 



57 




Enlargement of the lower 
jaw, caused by two dis- 
eased teeth. 



The horse has, or should have, when full 'grown, forty teeth. 
In each jaw six nippers, two tushes and twelve molars. In the mare 
the tushes are either not developed at all, or 
else they do not make their appearance be- 
fore old age, although some protuberances 
corresponding to them are hidden below the 
gums. The tush is a long, sharp tooth, oc- 
cupying a position on each side of the jaw 
between the nippers and grinders, but some- 
what closer to the former than the back 
teeth. What a great many farmers call 
blind teeth, and ignorantly imagine to be Jj 
the cause of numberless ills, come on the up- 
per jaw between the bridle teeth and grind- 
ers. Some mistake the tush for this tooth. 
The cutting of nearly thirty teeth, how- 
ever lightly it may be regarded by the stock 
raiser, is certainly a matter of no small moment to the colt. While it 
is true that nature prepares the gums in a great measure for this pro- 
cess, if any one will take the trouble to examine the mouth and gums 

of the colt while it 
is going on, he will 
probably be aston- 
ished to find how 
hot and feverish 
those parts are. 
This is the most 
critical period o f 
his whole life. It 
i s undoubtedly a 
wise and kindly 
provision of nature 
that the colt's teeth 
do not all come at 
once; for if that was 
the case, such would be the severity of the operation that very few, 
probably, would live through it. As it is, the soreness and inflam- 
mation of cutting only eight at once is terrific. After this, the gums 
are allowed time to heal over before any more come through. Horses 
at four years old are subject to spells of coughing, caused by the irri- 
tation from cutting the last teeth. 




Elongation of the first molar. The tooth had made a hole 
up into the nose. Had been wrongly diagnosed as 
glanders. 



53 



TWENTIETH CENTURY HORSE ROOK. 



SHEDDING. 



Closely connected with teething is the process of shedding, 
which is the replacement of the milk by the permanent teeth. The 




Upper and low jaws of a horse that had an ulcerated fourth upper molar; the elon- 
gated fourth lower molar had grown up into it. The abscess had broken into 
the nasal cavity and discharged through the nose. Had been wrongly diag- 
nosed as glanders. 

first teeth do not come out and the lacerated gums heal over, as is the 
case with children, but the second tooth comes up immediately un- 



No. 1 



No. 2 



No. 3 




Portions of three lower jaws from horses which died from diseased teeth. No. I 
shows where the third tooth had ulcerated and caused a running sore on the 
outside of the jaw. No. 2 is from a three-year-old colt, where the second and 
third molars had grown up into the upper jaw, and caused an enlargement on 
it. The animal had been treated for bighead, and no attention paid to the 
teeth. No. 3 shows a long first tooth in the lower jaw which had grown up 
through the upper jaw into the nose. The trouble caused by this was supposed 
to be glanders, and the horse was killed. 



der the first one and lifts it entirely out of the gums. What is still 
more remarkable is, that while this is going on the under part of the 
milk teeth is being ground or worn off and its substance absorbed by 



morgan's treatment and training. 



59 



the surrounding parts, so that there is but a small portion of it left by 
the time the permanent tooth reaches the surface of the gum. As the 
under tooth comes up from its bed in the jaw, the gums being lifted 
up by it retain their hold upon the other until the second is near 
enough through to subserve the needs of the animal in eating; then all 
at once the gums release their hold on the upper tooth, which drops 
out, and then sink down around the new one, their swelling and sore- 
ness subsiding, and all is right in the mouth again. Colts shed 




Showing Method of Working on the Back Teeth with Haussmann & Dunn's Float. 

twelve nippers and twelve grinders. Two nippers above and below 
are shed at the same time they shed the first grinders above and be- 
low. This is at about the age of two and a half years; then at three 
years and a half they shed the middle teeth; they shed the second 
grinders all around at the same time. At the age of four and a half, 
they shed the corner teeth; at the same time they shed the third 
grinders all around. The last back grinders are full grown at five 
years old. 

The twelve back grinders grow permanently and never shed. 
My experience in most cases is, that colts shed all their grinders by 
the time they are three and one-half years old; but the rule is for the 
grinders to shed at the same time that the incisors are shed. 



HOW TO FLOAT HORSES' TEETH. 

The surface (or crown) of the tooth should never be touched, the 
outside edge of the upper teeth nor the inside of the lower teeth. Be 
sure that the corner off of the first grinder and the last grinder is 
floated smooth. Caution should be observed that the membranes 
back of the tooth are not in any way lacerated, that is by running the 



60 TWENTIETH CENTURY HORSE BOOK. 

float back against them. I never use the tooth plane, such as Goings, 
as I have found in several instances where the tooth was splintered 
from its use. In old horses it loosens the teeth. Where the corners 
are long I use the tooth cutter to clip them off. In very old horses 
the operator should be very careful, as a careless operator is liable to 
make the mouth sore, and it is liable to remain so for a month or 
more, and the owner of the horse will be dissatisfied with the job. 




Float for Filing Teeth. 
DECAY OF THE TEETH. 

The teeth of the horse, like those of the human being, are sub- 
ject to decay. They become rotten, which is just the same condition 
that the dentist refers to when he speaks of caries of the teeth. The 
horses' front teeth sometimes show signs of decay, but generally it is 
the jaw teeth or molars that are affected. 

It may be a novelty to the reader, but it is a fact that the horse 
very frequently suffers from toothache. This is one of the causes 
which so often makes him suddenly drop the corn or other hard feed 
from his mouth while eating. The owner or attendant. generally sets 
this down as indicating some disrelish for the food at that particular 
time, whereas, the fact very often is that he has hurt his tooth. Hav- 
ing no hand to press to his mouth, the poor animal is allowed to 
suffer without there being so much as suspicion of what the trouble 
really is. If you find your horse has rotten or decayed teeth, take 
him to a horse dentist who has good extracting forceps, and have 
them taken out. 

The human being has the advantage over the horse, that when 
the decayed tooth becomes filled with food and presses on the, nerve, 
he can remove is by using a tooth-pick, and if the tooth should ache 
he can fill the cavity with cotton saturated in some antidote, as oil of 
cloves, etc., but the poor dumb animal has to stand and suffer the 
agony of death several times. Now if this pressure is allowed to re- 
main it will in time cause the tooth to burst open, and this is why the 
horse's tooth should be removed at once. I have had many cases 
brought to me for treatment where the owner thought the animal was 
affected with some other disease, and I cite one case in particular. 



morgan's treatment and training. 



61 



HAUSSMANN & DUNN'S 
SET OF INSTRUMENTS FOR HORSE DENTISTRY. 



I have used this make of instruments for over fifteen years, and find them to be 
the very best made in the United States. Any kind of instrument can be had by ad- 
dressing Haussmann & Dunn, Chicago, 111. 




Open Molar Cutters. 




HAUSSMANN 8. DUNN jf. 



Half Open Molar Cutters. 




Closed Molar Cutters. 




Ivower Molar Extractor. 




Root Extractor. 




Open First Molar Cutters. 

~V HAUSSMANN J, DUNN 



Closed First Molar Cutters. 




Closed Lower Molar Cutters. 




Small Molar Extractor. 




Wolf Tooth Forceps. 




Straight Nipper Cutter. 




Handle for Complete Set of Forceps and Cutters shown above. 




Flaussmann & Dunn's Improved Float. 



62 



TWENTIETH CENTURY HORSE BOOK. 



While at Fulton, Mo., a horse seven years of age that had been sick 
for five days and had not eaten anything, had been treated by a 
country doctor for lung fever, and a great deal of different kinds of 
medicine had been given. Upon examination of the mouth I found 
the third molar to be very badly ulcerated. Upon removing the 
tooth two or three ounces of pus follow from the cavity, and this gave 
the horse instant relief and he began to eat and entirely recovered. Dur- 
ing this same visit at Fulton, a horse was brought into Martin's livery 
stable for me to operate upon, and I pulled the tooth and the horse 
fell back and expired within one hour. Death was caused from nerv- 
ous prostration brought on by the shock of pulling the tooth. This 
is the only case that I ever had to prove fatal in pulling teeth, but I 
had two other cases where the animal would collapse after the opera- 
tion and remain in this condition five or six hours before being able 
to rise. 




Osseous or dentine tumor which had formed in the 
nasal cavity and weighed eight and one-half 
pounds. This is the head of a six-year-old mule 
that was foaled eight miles south of Tyler, Tex- 
as. The local horsemen believed it to be big- 
head; the mule died from strangulation from 
the tumor growing back to the posterior naries. 
In my opinion this tumor was caused by the 
last two molars being diseased. 




¥%■■ felT* , W I>" -■ Si" 





SYMPTOMS OF DISEASED TEETH. 



A horse that is suffering from troubles of the teeth will, if the 
corn is fed on the cob, shell it off before eating it, and turn his head 
on one side and suddenly stop eating, allowing the corn to fall from 
his mouth; and will sometimes take a mouthful of hay and quid it 
and let it fall out also; and generally keeps up a continuous pawing. 
Sometimes when eating grass it works up on the" sides until it shows 
a bulk on the side of the mouth. While drinking w T ater he will suck 
the tongue and open the mouth, allowing the water to run out, and 
turn the head on one side as if in pain; while driving tossing the 
head, fighting the bit, champing the teeth, lolling the tongue, slob- 
bering, starting suddenly, stopping short, shying and pulling on one 



morgan's treatment and training. 



63 



rein, lugging and running away. The hair will look bad and the an^ 
imal will be hide bound and have running sores on the face and under 
the lower jaw. The horse will stumble badly and if driven until 
warm will scare badly. 

HOW TO MANAGE THE HORSE WHILE WORKING ON THE TEETH. 



I have worked on thousands of horses' teeth and do not cast one 
in five hundred. I have worked on all kinds of mules and wild 
horses. The best halter I have ever used is made by Haussman & 

Dunn, of Chicago. 
(See cut.) I have 
worked on the streets 
and have experienced 
very little trouble in 
having the animal re- 
main perfectly quiet 
while performing the 
operation. In ap- 
proaching a horse for 
the purpose of opera- 
ting, it is always best 
not to have any offen- 
sive smell on the 
hands. It is a good 
idea to rub the hands 
over another horse un- 
til they will smell like the horse. Rub the head of the horse to be 
operated upon and speak kindly and gently, and show him that it 
is not your intention to hurt him, and the operator should be very 
careful and not strike the horse with the float or forceps when begin- 
ning the operation, so as not to hurt or frighten him. 




Lucas' Dental Hai/ter. 

The best device for securing the horse's head 
while operating, as it effectually prevents it from mov- 
ing to either side or upward. The straps are adjustable, 
so that the head can be held in any position desired. 



HOW TO PULL TF^TH. 

I never use a speculum in the mouth except in a few cases, but 
would advise beginners to use one, and I consider Haussman & 
Dunn's speculum (see cut on page 51) the best one made. After 
grasping the tooth with the forceps, a strap is very useful to wrap 
around the handles to assist the operator in holding the forceps in po- 
sition. Teeth that are still firm can be loosened by light side move- 
ments of the instruments, but to avoid breaking the crown of the 



64 



TWENTIETH CENTURY HORSE BOOK. 



tooth or fracturing the jaw, it is needful to proceed slowly and cau- 
tiously. Many operators make a mistake by putting too much 
strength and vim into the operations. When horses have passed 
eleven and twelve years of age, their teeth are easily removed as they 
are short, but young horses at the age of five or six years having long 
teeth, it requires a man of some strength to remove them with the 
common forceps, and sometimes teeth have a growth on the roots 
which makes it almost impossible to remove until trephining is 
performed and the obstruction is cut off of the top of the roots. 

During my travels I run across many strange cases of disease 
caused by bad teeth, and here present a few of the most noteworthy. 
All of these plates have been engraved from photographs in my 
possession. 



K*m: 




ci :: a: .■«*p'i»V j,'.» s«R^i *•-*•, •«•*'. i 'aS*?'' -*■-- £& 



Skull of a horse that was killed for supposed glanders. Four of the grinders 
had ulcerated and split, and the food had worked up through them into the head. 
There were running sores on the outside of the face and the boue was badly decayed. 





vShear mouth. The fifth lower molar was diseased, and the horse to protect him- 
self against the pain caused by this diseased tooth had to chew on the other side; the 
upper jaw being wider than the lower jaw, moved the jaw to one side and these teeth 
having a continuous growth and not coming in contact with anything, had nothing 
to w 7 ear them down, and continued to grow until thev wore into the gum and bone. 



morgan's treatment and training. 



65 




This plate shows part of the jaws of a mule, twelve years old. 
While I was lecturing in McKinney, Texas, the owner was in the 
audience, and at the close of the lecture, he came and told me he had 

lost a mule from colic, but 
after hearing me describe 
some of the symptoms arising 
from bad teeth, he believed 
that that was really what 
caused the mule's death. He 
went and brought me the 
specimen. It can be seen 
that there were seven molars 
above and only six below, 
and in my opinion the extra 
tooth (the seventh above) 
caused the trouble, as there was no tooth below to meet it, and it 
grew into the lower jaw bone and caused the fifth and sixth lower 
molars to become diseased and dropped out. In front of the first up- 
per molar you will observe a small tooth, called a blind or wolf tooth. 
The sixth and seventh molars should have been pulled, and the part 
of the fifth tooth that projects should have been clipped off. Had 
this been done the poor animal could have been saved, instead of suf- 
fering death many times from the pain caused by these teeth grinding 
together. A peculiar feature of this case was that there was not the 
slightest external evidence of any disease. It is not necessary for a 
horse to have a good set of grinders on each side of the mouth. If he 
has one good side, and no long tooth on the other side to interfere 
with his grinding his food on the good side, he will thrive and get 
along all right. 

In the next plate the upper cut shows 
the jaw bone of a mule. The lower 
cut shows a long tooth. The teeth 
had grown up inside of the upper 
teeth, and the upper ones had grown 
down on the outside of these. These 
lower ones had grown into the bone of 
the head and pressing against the 
nerve caused lock jaw from which the 
animal died. The upper specimen is 
from a fourteen-year-old mule, owned by a drayman in Honey Grove? 
Texas. 



,-jf\""#j^ 



\ -- 

. v,: .. .- 








66 



TWENTIETH CENTURY HORSE BOOK. 




Here is another frightful example of the effects of a long tooth. The animal 
whose skull is shown in this picture began failing and became a mere frame of skin 
and bones, and finally died. He simply starved to death, because he could not eat on 
account of the pain caused by this long tooth cutting into the lower jaw. The owner 
did not know what was the matter until long after the animal was dead. This speci- 
men is owned by Geo. W. Wilson, blacksmith and track-shoer, of Fredonia, Kansas, 
who is one of the finest mechanics I have ever met. He has made himself a fine 
set of instruments for horse dentistry, and does considerable work in that line. 





21. mi\ zo ' 






'•"<*.>"" 



Figures i and 2. Baby teeth or caps, first molar on left side and below. 

Figures 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, n, 12 and 18. Are clipped from shear-mouthed horses. 

Figures 9 and 10. Number 9 was a long tooth, the first molar on left side, and 
caused an abcess in the nostril. Number 10 was a point of a long tooth that was 
cut off. 

Figures 13 and 14. Sharp edges clipped from a six-year-old horse. 

Figure 15. Is the elongation of the third and fourth lower molars. 

Figure 16. Is the elongation of the third and fourth lower molars. These had 
grown through into the nasal cavity. 

Figures 17 and 20. Figure 17 is the elongation of the third molar and figure 20 
is the elongation of the second molar out of same mouth. 

Figure 21. An elongation of the first molar. 

Figures 19 and 22. Came out of the same mouth. Number 19 was clipped off of 



morgan's treatment and training. 



67 



the last tooth on the right side. Figure 22 was a diseased tooth on the same side, be- 
ing the last lower molar, and had ulcerated, and there was an enlargement on the out- 
side of the angles of the jaw as big as a man's fist. 

The enlargement on the point of figure 18 is an accumulation of the lime 
or calculus. 




This shows the skull of a dray horse that died at Webb City, Mo., his death be- 
ing ascribed to colic. It will be seen that he had an extra upper tooth like the one 
shown on page 65. This tooth grew down into the lower jaw, cutting it one-third 
way through, and was the cause of the death. This specimen was given me by livery- 
man, Jesse Kerns, of Webb City. 




This cut shows the upper and lower jaws of a fourteen-year-old 
horse, where the third lower molar had grown through into the nasal 
cavity. This specimen was brought to me while I was operating at 
Peirce City, Mo., by a man named Elzey. This horse was foaled as 
his, and was a very faithful and kind work horse. About the time 
he was five years old an enlargement appeared over the third upper 
molar, on the outside of the face, and in six months this enlargement 
disappeared and then discharge began running from the nostril. The 
horse kept in good flesh until he was seven years old and then com- 
menced to go down and continued to lose flesh until he died. The 



68 



TWENTIETH CENTURY HORSE BOOK. 



discharge from the nose increased and became very offensive, and 
feed would work through into the nostril. Two years before he died, 
he became unable to do any work and the owner kept him in an old 
field to himself. The neighbors objected to his drinking at public 
places and being on the road, fearing that it was a case of glanders. 
Death finally relieved the poor horse from the intense suffering and 
agony that he had endured for years. This animal could have been 
operated upon, and by. clipping off the long part of the tooth he 
would have been relieved and would have regained his flesh and made 
a useful animal, but the owner did not know that horses suffered from 
bad teeth until he heard the lecture. 

FILLING HOLES WORN THROUGH TO THE NASAL CAVITY. 

When you find a horse suffering from a long tooth, examine care- 
fully and see if it has cut a hole into the nasal cavity. Tf so, the hole 
should be filled to prevent food from working up into the cavity. To 
do this get some gutta percha, soften in hot water, and carefully fill 
the hole in the bone. It will harden when cool. 




Figure i. A tooth that I removed from a three-year-old trotting mare at Lamar, 
Mo. Had an enlargement over the second molar as large as a goose egg. 

Figure 2. The last two upper molars, four inches long, of a stallion ten years 
old, which I term mammoth teeth. There was a large abcess on the side of the head, 
right under the last molar. 

Eigure 3. A group of supernumerary teeth that I removed from the left upper 
jaw of a standard-bred trotting mare, six years old, belonging to Mr. Bowman, of 
Rockwall county j Texas. 

Figures 4 and 5. Mammoth teeth, removed by me at Golden City, Mo., from the 
mouth of a four-year-old mare. This animal was brought to me for treatment for the 
bighead, as all the horsemen in that part of the country had pronounced it a case of 



morgan's treatment and training. 



69 



bighead. On examination I found these teeth, the first upper grinders on each side. 
The width of these teeth was crossways in the mouth and did not run lengthways as 
the other teeth had grown, until the face was bulged out on each side as large as a 
goose egg. They were two and one-half inches wide, one and one-half inches thick, 
and two and one-half inches long. 

Figure 6. A mammoth tooth, first lower molar on the right side, four and one- 
half inches long. I removed this tooth from the mouth of a ten-year-old dray horse, 
owned by William Daily, of Springdale, Ark. 

Figure 7. Abnormal growth of the third lower molar that I removed from a 
three-year-old mare, while I was making my headquarters at Dick Doniphen's stable, 
Neosho, Mo. This tooth is four inches long, and had grown through into the nasal 
cavity and there was a very offensive discharge from the nostril. 

Figure 8. A supernumerary tooth that I removed from a two-year-old mare while 
operating at Carthage, Mo. This is an extra large and heavy tooth and had caused 
the animal's head to become very large, and the tooth had grown through and caused 
an abscess in the head, and there was a running sore on the outside of the face. 




Figure 1. An ulcerated second molar removed by me from a horse that had an 
enlargement over this tooth, about the size of a man's fist. After removing the tooth 
I discovered a bony tumor, (see figure 2,) which I also removed by cutting through 
the face on the outside. 

Figure 3. A third lower molar that I removed from the mouth of a three-year-old 
mare, while operating in Ft. Smith, Ark., at Schulte's stable. 

Figure 4. A third upper molar removed from a jack by me. This tooth split 
open from the food being pressed into it and one part of the tooth had worked out of 
the mouth and left only the snag. 

Figure 5. Fourth molar that I removed from a six-year-old horse that had a run- 
ning sore on the face. 

Figure 6. Osseous, or dentine tumor, (some writers call it a floating tooth) lo- 
cated at the base of the ear of a horse, from which there was an open sore. 

Figure 7. A bony tumor that I removed from the inside of a horse's lip. 

Figure 8. A fourth upper molar on right side. 

Figure 9. A bony tumor that I removed from the right nostril of a horse; caused 
from a tooth that had exostosis or bony growth on it. 

Figure 10. A tumor that I removed from around the tusks that had become 
diseased. 

Fieure 11. A tumor that I removed from an abscess in throat above the swallow, 

O 

or esophagus, Centralia, Missouri. It is of calculus or dentine nature. 

Figure 12. A tumor that I removed from the eye of a horse. The eye was very 
much inflamed and swollen and upon removing the eye I found this osseous tumor. 

Figure 13. A limy tumor removed from the saliva glands of a horse. 



•o 



TWENTIETH CENTURY HORSE BOOK. 




THIS IS A PLATE OF SUPERNUMERARY TEETH. 

Figure i. A supernumerary tooth that grew in between number 5 and 6, upper 
molars on right side. I removed this tooth at Baxter Springs, Kansas. 

Figure 2. Osseous or dentine tumor that I removed from a horse in Paris, Texas. 

Figure 3. A supernumerary or floating tooth that I removed from an eight-months- 
old colt in Van Alstyne, Texas. The owner brought this colt in for me to operate on. 
He had been told by the local horsemen that the colt was affected with distemper. 
There was a large abscess between the under jaw, and this enlargement ran back 
undert he neck. 

Figure 4. A supernumerary tooth that I removed from the inside of the teeth, 
alongside of the fifth molar tooth, on the right side. This tooth was removed from 
the mouth of a four-year-old horse. 

Figure 5. A supernumerary tooth that I removed from in front and alongside of 
the first upper molar tooth of the horse. There was no external showing. 

Figure 6. Supernumerary tooth removed from alongside of the fourth upper 
molar tooth on the outside. 

Figure 7. Was removed from alongside of the inside of the fourth lower molar; it 
had lacerated the tongue, and the horse slobbered badly. 

Figures 8 and 9. Supernumerary teeth removed from the same mouth. Figure 8 
was removed from the outside and alongside of the fourth upper molar. Figure 9 
was removed from outside and alongside of the third lower molar. 

Figure 10. A supernumerary tooth; was located back of the upper molar and had 
grown down into the tongue and had bored into it an inch and a half. 

Figure 11. A supernumerary tooth removed from between the third and fourth 
lower molars; the roots were badly diseased. 

Figure 12. An ill-formed, enlarged incisor that I removed from Anibell, a trot- 
ting mare belonging to Robert M. Hutchings, Galveston, Texas. 

Figure 13. A supernumerary tooth removed from the lower jaw. This tooth had 
become crosswise of the mouth. 

Figures 14 and 15. Supernumerary teeth removed from this same mouth from 
alongside of the third upper molar on each side. 

Figures 16 and 17. Two supernumerary teeth removed from the mouth of a five- 



*T» 



MORGAN'S TREATMENT AND TRAINING. 



71 



year-old horse, on each side of the lower jaw. 

Figure 18. A supernumerary tooth I removed from a three-year-old filley at 
Scottsville, Kansas, from the outside and alongside of the second molar. 




Figure 1. Ulcerated third molar that I removed from a horse while stopping at 
Reitnor's stable, in Sherman, Texas. 

Figure 2. Third molar in the under jaw that I removed from a four-year-old 
horse, that had a running sore. 

Figure 3. Badly ulcerated tooth that I removed from a mule. 

Figure 4. A tooth that caused a running sore on the face of a six-year-old horse, 
with a big growth on the roots of the tooth. I attempted to pull it with the forceps. 
I succeeded only in shaking it loose, so had to trephine and drive it out. 

Figures 5 and 6. Two ulcerated lower molar teeth removed from the lower jaws 
of a valuable jennet belonging to W. P. Brickley, of Farmersville, Texas. 

Figures 7, 8, 9, 10 and 11. Pieces of one tooth. This was the fourth upper molar 
on the right side, that I removed at McKinney, Texas, from a three-year-old colt. 
There was an abnormal growth on the roots in a globe shape, and hollow in the cen- 
ter. There was an enlargement on the face of the horse, over his tooth, the size of a 
man's fist, and a discharge into the mouth from this tooth. 

Figure 12. A badly ulcerated third upper molar that I removed from a mule. 



Figure 



A milk tooth, the first molar of a two-year-old colt, that I re- 



moved, which was badly ulcerated. The reason I mention this particular case is, 
that nature did not replace this tooth with a permanent one. 

Figure 14. An ulcerated tooth removed from a horse at Fulton, Mo., that I men- 
tioned previously, where he collapsed and died. 

Figure 15. A tooth that is split from the food pressing into the cavity. 

Figure 16. The teeth on each side of this figure are two badly ulcerated molars, 
extracted from a twelve-year-old horse. 

Figure 17. An ulcerated tooth that I removed from a ten-year-old horse that had 
a bad case of rheumatism. 

Figure 18. A tooth that caused a running sore on the face of a five-year-old 
horse. This was similar to the case at Sherman, Texas. In that the owner did not 
believe it was caused from a tooth and wanted me to treat the sore. 



72 



TWENTIETH CENTURY HORSE BOOK. 



Figure i is the jaw bone of a hog which 
was enlarged from two ulcerated molars 
and there was a running sore through the 
jaw. 

Figure 2 is the third upper left molar 
and the section' of the jaw bone surround- 
ing it. This was taken from a horse in 
Paris, Texas, that was four years old when 
killed. 

Figure 3. In this figure the first up- 
per molar is an elongated tooth growing 
into the lower jaw bone. Figure 4 is the 
opposite or the first lower molar growing 
into the upper jaw. 

Figure 5. This is the jaw of an old 
horse, and they frequently get in this con- 
dition, showing irregular teeth, and sharp 
ones. 

Figure 6. This is the right side of the 
upper jaw of a horse that the owner had 
spent about forty dollars on doctoring for 
bighead. 

Figure 7. This is the right side of the 
upper part of the head showing a badly ulcerated tooth. This animal had belonged 
to Dr. Blackwell, a liveryman of Cooper, Texas, who attended one of my lectures in 
the court house at Cooper, and afterwards brought this head. 

These are a few of the operations that I have performed, which I trust, will be of 
benefit and interest to the reader. 




THE HORSE A SILENT SUFFERER. 



It may strike the reader that I have devoted considerable space to 
the subject of the horse's teeth and the diseases incident thereto, but 
I would willingly use much more time and space if I felt sure that I 
could arouse the public to the great importance of this subject. If a 
horse is hurt externally, cut, bruised or lame, or has a sore of any 
kind, it is noticed, and something is done for it. But he may be suf- 
fering the tortures of death from his teeth and no one know it. He 
cannot speak, he cannot put a hand on the aching, throbbing spot of 
pain, he cannot even cry as a cat or dog in misery can — all he can do 
is to suffer in silence. Any man will sympathize with a horse that 
has a nail in its foot and will go a long ways to get it removed, but 
the pain of toothache or any of the many diseases of the teeth is just as 
bad, or worse, and because the teeth are hidden from sight, nothing 
is done to relieve him. Hundreds of horses have died of tetanus 
(lock jaw) caused by these excruciating pains. What I seek to do is 
tq n impress indelibly the importance of looking for trouble in the 
horse's mouth, and showing how to remove it when found. If you 



morgan's treatment and training. 



73 



have a horse whose teeth call for the services of a dentist, be careful what 
kind of an operator you employ. No man should be permitted to work 
on a horse's teeth who is not kind-hearted and full of sympathy for 
dumb animals. A brutal, unfeeling man, or an ignorant pretender, 
may do an injury that will leave the horse suffering more than he did 
before the work was done, and the object of such work should be to 
relieve suffering — -not to cause it. There are men low enough to 
pull a sound tooth merely to make a pretense of doing something and 
to earn a fee. I am sorry to say this, but cases of this kind have 
come under my observation. Too many operators are in this busi- 
ness simply for the money there is in it, and have no thought of the 
good they may do. Others take pride in making a name as "bold 
operators," and try to show their "nerve" by cutting, slashing and 
otherwise cruelly hurting the poor animals entrusted in their hands. 
If you would be a really successful operator you must be moved by 
the higher motive of doing good for your dumb patients, handling 
them as gently as the case will permit, and removing as far as lies in 
your power everything that is causing them to suffer. No matter if it 
be an old horse or a poor horse — do the best you can for him, and if 
you do this at all times, regardless of what there is in it for you, you 
will be doing good, and that is the most successful thing in this 
world, and the thing that gives a man his best and most lasting 
satisfaction. 



HOW TO FIND A HORSE'S PULSE. 




This cut illustrates 
where and how to find 
the horse's pulse. In 
health, the average 
number of pulsations 
are from forty to fifty 
every minute. In dis- 
ease, the pulse varies 
in frequency and char- 
acter. The smaller 
the horse, the quicker 
the pulse. 



74 TWENTIETH CENTURY HORSE BOOK. 



MORGAN'S TWELVE RELIABLE REMEDIES. 



The author presents the following remedies with the fullest confi- 
dence in their merit and reliability, having used them in his practice 
for over fifteen years, and thoroughly tested them. By their use any 
man of common sense will be able to doctor a horse intelligently for 
all ordinary and usual diseases to which the horse is subject. 
They are easily compounded, and are of simple, inexpensive materials, 
readily obtainable. The twelve remedies are intended to cover the 
whole range of horse diseases, and it will be a rare case, indeed, if 
the proper medicine cannot be found in this collection. 



WHITE HORSE DUKE'S LINIMENT, 
Named after Dr. Morgan's well-known white horse, Duke. 

Apple vinegar i quart 

Spirits of turpentine i quart 

Oil of organum % ounce 

Oil of sassafras l / 2 ounce 

Spirits of camphor l / 2 ounce 

Tincture of capsicum y 2 ounce 

Oil of cloves jounce 

Two eggs. 

Break the eggs into the vinegar and shake well until thoroughly 
mixed. Next add turpentine and shake well. Let stand five hours. 
Then add the other ingredients. 

This is one of the best general liniments for man and beast in 
the world, and contains all the virtues found in any liniment, besides 
being cheap and easily made. The older it gets the better it is, if 
kept corked. 

For Horses. — It is good for strains, bruises, weak back, • sore 
throat, rheumatism, and all diseases of the joints or muscles. For 
distemper and sore throat, where the glands are swollen, it will draw 
the swelling to a head in a short time. Is also a fine thing to stimu- 
late the growth in horses' feet. Pneumonia, lung fever, weak back, 
kidney disease and colic. In lung fever and pneumonia apply it over 
the lungs and chest. For weak back apply to the back twice a day. 
For kidney disease apply to the small of the back, over the kidneys. 
For colic rub on the belly and the flanks, and on the small of the 
back. This liniment can be safely used where any good liniment 
would be needed. When first applied it smarts and burns, but this is 
onlv for a few minutes. 



morgan's treatment and training. 75 

For Man. — Must be- weakened by adding one pint of apple vin- 
egar to the quantity given above. It is a sure relief for rheumatism, 
weak back, swollen joints or muscles, sore throat and lungs, strains, 
sprains and bruises, and it contains nothing that would possibly harm 

anv one. 

HEALING OIL AND GERMICIDE. 

Fish oil i pint 

Spirits of turpentine i pint 

Raw linseed oil i pint 

Canada balsam I ounce 

Mix the above together and put in an open vessel such as a milk 
crock. Then add, sulphuric acid, commercial, y 2 ounce. The acid 
will cause a kind of boiling, on account of the chemical action, and 
heat the mixture. Let stand until cool, then bottle. Be sure not to 
undertake to mix it in a close-mouthed bottle, as it is almost sure to 
break it. 

This is one of the best remedies I have ever found for barb wire 
or other cuts near the hoof, killing all disease germs, and preventing 
the hard growth that so often forms in healing cuts. It is not neces- 
sary to stop working a horse to cure sore shoulders or sore neck with 
this oil. Also good for poll evil and fistula. My success in cas- 
trating ridglings and old stallions is largely due to the antiseptic 
properties of this oil. I use it in all operations where I use the 
knife. It can be used freely twice a day. 

For Man. — It is a wonderful healer of piles, old sores, cuts, 

burns and blisters. For piles inject with a syringe. Is perfectly 

harmless. 

PRINCE'S COLIC CURE. 

Named for Dr. Morgan's horse which wears a silver tube in 

his throat. 

Fluid extract of buchu i% ounces 

Fluid extract of colocynth 1% ounces 

Fluid extract of aconite I 1 /?, drachms. 

Fluid extract of colchicum l / 2 drachm 

Chloroform i% ounces 

Mix. This will make four ounces. A dose is half an ounce, so 
the above quantity makes eight doses. Directions for giving it: 
Half an ounce back on the tongue, full strength. Do not weaken 
with water, as it is necessary for it to excite the salivary glands so 
that the saliva will pass into the stomach. It causes an irritation of 
the mouth when first given, but this soon disappears. If the first 
dose fails to relieve the animal, give a second in half an hour, and a 
third dose mav be given if needed, in an hour after the second. 



y6 TWENTIETH CENTURY HORSE BOOK. 

This is very strong and should be given carefully according to di- 
rections. It is easily given, as it is not necessary for the animal to 
swallow it. The necessary thing is to get it back on the tongue, 
which may be done by using a large spoon, a small bottle or syringe. 
The great advantage of this cure over the old colic cures is the small 
dose, and the ease with which it is given. Many of the old cures are 
from a half pint to a quart, which must be got into the stomach, 
and in drenching the horse, he is often killed in his struggles. 
Nearly all the old colic remedies contained laudanum, ether and 
chloroform, and in many cases of supposed colic the real trouble was 
kidney disease; symptoms of these two diseases are so much alike that 
the averge person could easily mistake the pne for the other. Where 
the trouble is in the urinary organs and laudanum is given it checks 
the kidneys, and this is the reason so many horses die after being 
dosed for colic with medicine containing laudanum. The beauty of 
Prince's Colic Cure is that it is good and perfectly safe in any case of 
colic or other internal pains. It acts very quickly — on the bowels in 
15 to 20 minutes, on the kidneys in about the same time, not how- 
ever, causing urination that quickly. The bottle must be kept 

tightlv corked. 

FEVER DROPS. 

Fluid extract aconite 1 ounce 

Fluid extract belladonna 1 ounce 

Alcohol 1 ounce 

Sweet spirits of nitre 1 ounce 

Sulphate of quinine 2 drachms 

Cut the quinine with 20 or 30 drops of muriatic acid, so it will 
mix easily with the other ingredients. 

Mix. Dose for horse, fifteen to thirty drops every two hours, for 
cattle thirty to forty drops every two hours, administered on the 
tongue, with a teaspoon generally. 

This is very poisonous and should be handled with a great deal 
of care. In severe cases where the horse is chilled I have given as 
much as a teaspoonful at the first dose, or in bad cases of distemper. 
A few drops would kill a child, and hence the greatest care should be 
used not to leave in the reach of children. 

This is the greatest remedy that I have ever used in reducing 
fever and inflammation. Some horses can not staud as much as 
others. When a horse has taken too much, he will slobber profusely. 
If the horse shows this symptom the drops should be given every 
three hours instead of every two hours. (These are the fever drops 
referred to all through the book. ) In horses and cattle good for 
soreness of the lungs, cold in the head, fever, chills, coughs, stag- 



morgan's treatment and training. . 77 

gers, inflammation of the bowels, distemper, epizootic, bronchitis, 
sore throat, milk fever in cows and diseases of an inflammatory na- 
ture; also lung fever and pneumonia. Everyone should keep it in 
their stable. Is also good for "shipping cold." I gave a dose daily 
to jacks while bringing them across the ocean, and it kept them free 
from coughs or colds, and kept their bowels free. 

CAUSTIC BLISTER. 

Oleum tiglii i ounce 

Oil of spike i ounce 

Oil of cedar i ounce 

Raw linseed oil 3 ounces 

Mix. This is one of the best blisters I ever used when taken 
care of properly. It is one of the strongest blisters known, and yet is 
harmless if used properly. I have been very successful in applying it 
on fistula before it breaks, and in cases where they have been run- 
ning for some time, and are inflamed, it removes the enlargement 
and inflammation. To apply to a fistula, cut the hair off of the 
swollen part, and then grease well all around, but not on the swell- 
ing, then apply the blister, and the grease will protect the skin 
around the spot where you want the blister. Generally one applica- 
cation is sufficient on a fistula. It is a good remedy for sweeny, but 
should be used lightly. Always after using this blister, be sure and 
wash it off, the next morning, and grease the blistered part well with 
hog's lard. Do this in all cases where it is used, for if you fail to do 
so, the blister will keep on eating, and make a bad sore. This, if 
used when the trouble first begins, will cure spavin, ring-bone, curb, 
splints, side-bones, bighead, or any bony growth, but after the en- 
largement has become hard and set, it will not remove it. It will, 
however cure the lameness in 70 out of 100 cases. In any case re- 
quiring a good blister, you can rely on this, the only caution to be 
observed being not to apply too much. 

EYE WATER. 

Sulphate of atropa 8 grains 

Sulphate of zinc 1 drachm 

Sulphate of morphine 15 grains 

Rose water 6 ounces 

Mix. Apply twice a day in the eye. The best way to apply eye 
water is as follows: Put a twitch on the animal. Place the quantity 
you are going to use in a small bottle, making sure there is no rough 
edge on the bottle. Pull the lower eye lid down, and you can then 
pour the eye water in safely and surely. It is a very poor plan to 
use a syringe or dropper, or. to try and apply eye water without put- 



;S TWENTIETH CENTURY HORSE BOOK. 

ting on the twitch. Many a horse has been made mean about having 
his head approached just by the improper way in which eye water 
was applied. Right here I wish to denounce the cruel practice of 
some who throw salt in a horse's sore eye. Imagine how you would 
like salt put in your eyes, even if they were not sore. Besides being 
cruel, it is of no benefit, but rather an injury. This eye water will do 
all that any eye water can do to the eye, easing the pain and remov- 
ing the inflammation. 

IODINE OINTMENT. 

Red iodide of mercury i >£ drachms 

Crystal iodine i ounce 

Oleum tiglii 40 drops 

Vaseline sufficient to make a salve. 

Grind the iodine up fine in a mortar and cut it with a half ounce 
of alcohol. Then add the other ingredients and mix well. This is 
my remedy for bog spavin, blood spavin, thoroughpin, wind galls, or 
any soft enlargements. To use this, apply every other clay, until 
four or five applications have been made, rubbing it in well on the 
enlargement. Some judgment must be exercised in using this, as the 
skin is thinner on some horses than on others. Should be repeated 
about every two or three weeks. It takes from three to nine months 
to remove a bad bog spavin. 

CARBOLIZED IODINE. 

Tincture of iodine 3 ounces 

Carbolic acid 3 ounces 

Mix and it is ready for use. This is used in fistula, poll evil, 
any old sores, warts, or anything of long standing. It is one of the 
best things I know of for caries of the jaw, where the bone is decay- 
ing. Apply with a small brush twice a day. If there is a running 
sore in the bone inject the medicine into it with a syringe. In fistula 
inject it into the pipes, and take oakum or cotton and saturate it with 
the medicine and work it down into the bottom of the pipes. It will 
not cause swelling or inflammation to amount to anything, and will 
kill any germs, being a safe antiseptic and having a tendency to 
ease pain. 

RELIABLE PHYSIC. 

Spirits of turpentine i 1 ., ounces 

Fluid extract of aloes 1 % ounces 

Calomel 1 drachm 

Powdered ginger 1 ounce 

Raw linseed oil 10 ounces 



morgan's treatment and training. 79 

Mix. Give as one dose. Be sure and get raw linseed oil, as the 
boiled oil contains a drier that is extremely dangerous. This is a 
good strong dose, but harmless. Some allowance is made for spilling 
when drenching. For removing worms, add to the above, i ounce of 
fluid extract of male fern. 

GENERAL TONIC. 

Fluid extract of digitalis i ounce 

Fluid extract of nux vomica I ounce 

Mix. Dose, from 15 to 30 drops, twice a day. For a heart tonic, 
in case of dropsy, swollen hind legs or any derangement caused by 
weak heart action. It is a fine tonic for old and weak horses. To 
administer, use a teaspoon, and place the medicine on the tongue. 
Do not use too long at a time; better to give for a week and then omit 
a week. It is a rank poison and should be handled very carefully. 

HAARLEM OIL. 

• 

Haarlem Oil (Medicamentum Gratia Probatum), is a proprietary 
medicine made in Germany for over 200 years, and sold at all drug 
stores. It is a wonderful medicine for kidney and bladder troubles, 
expelling all impurities through the kidneys and bowels, and is a safe 
'and harmless medicine. Use it in kidney and bladder troubles, 
gravel, and in all cases of fever. It is an indispensable remedy in 
every livery stable, being especially useful for swollen legs and ank- 
les. The dose for a horse is one bottle, usually given every other 
day, except in very severe cases. Dose for cattle, a bottle and a half; 
dogs, 15 drops once a day. 

BLOOD POWDERS. 

Iodide of potash iy 2 ounces 

Dry sulphate of iron ij^ounces 

Powdered aloes , \)/ z ounces 

Powdered stramonium 1 ounce 

Mix. Divide into twenty -four powders. Give two powders 
daily — one at night and one in the morning. Administer with a long- 
handled spoon, well back on the tongue. This is a valuable blood 
remedy, purifying the blood and cleansing the system, and is a 
great help when treating for fistula or old sores that are hard to heal. 



The above twelve remedies are almost indispensable to the horse 
owner, and especially should every farmer who is located at a distance 
from a drug store keep a supply. None of them is very expensive. 



8o 



TWENTIETH CENTURY HORSE BOOK. 



SIMPLIFIED METHOD OF DIAGNOSING DISEASES 



AND 



APPLYING THE TWELVE REMEDIES, 



By Prof. David B. Morgan. 



In this very important part of my work, I shall first treat upon 
colic. The term colic means pain in the colon (one of the large in- 
testines) but is accepted for all pain in the abdomen. It is always 
very serious for two reasons; it is painful and very apt to run into in- 
flammation of the bowels, which is usually fatal. 



SPASMODIC OR CRAMP COLIC 

Is pain in the bowels from the violent spasmodic contraction and 
cramps of the muscular coating in the bowels. ' It is called spasmodic, 
on account of the pain and cramps being intermittent and not contin- 
uous. There are mo- 
ments of relief from 
the pain in which the 
animal will be quiet 
and at ease, but it is 
apt to commence 
again after a few mo- 
ments. 

Causes: It is caused 
by irritation in the 
bowels from some in- 
digestible matter, also 
by drinking too much 
cold water. 

How to. recognize it: 
In the first stage the 
horse becomes uneasy, looks around, raises up his hind feet towards 
his belly, steps around from one side of the stall to the other, stops 
eating, and will curl as if to lie down. 




First Stage of Spasmodic Colic. 



morgan's treatment and training. 



81 




In the second stage he lies down and gets up again after lying 
perhaps a couple of minutes. In the third he rolls, kicks, sweats 
profusely, has a haggard countenance, is inclined to turn upon his 

back, and remain so. In" 
mild cases, after kicking 
for half an hour or so, 
the horse usually gets 
A )i ' ./ *> ' f/W W^$ better, the pain all passes 

,A iMtor$W j '4r ;%£i Hi off and he returns to his 

accustomed spirits and 
• :? ^'- habits; but if it does not 

go off in the course of 

^SJk* W M half an hour and from 

% > \'')\ . Mf i^fdi that to two or three 

^S;^ : ^1%*^' : ''^-^V' hours it is apt to run into 

Second Stage of Spasmodic Colic. inflammation of the bow- 

els and kill him. 
Treatment: Use Prince's Colic Cure as directed on page 75. 
Also apply externally the White Liniment to the abdominal walls and 
over the kidneys. 
A bottle of Haarlem 
Oil may be given to 
good advantage. SQ 

I have relieved 
the pain in all col- 
ics by the inhala- m?- y ^ft-M. 
tion process. Take iP^ ' Wr • ' ?.? 
an emptv twenty- mi : %' 
five-pound cloth ^i^^Xm/A 4> y#^Wmm^ 
flour sack and plac- ^^^^^^^^^^ "^PSSslslP^ 
ing a sponge in ^^8P^ ^^^ 
the bottom of same, 

saturate the sponge Third Stage of Spasmodic Colic. 

with the following: 

Tincture of benzoin %. ounce 

Spirits ammonia, aromatic i ounce 

Chloroform Y* ounce 

Sulphuric ether Yz ounce 

Oil of tar Y* ounce 

Oil of mustard 3° drops 

Spirits of camphor i ounce 

I use this remedy in bronchitis, distemper, colds, lung fever and 
pneumonia, and get quick relief. 




82 



TWENTIETH CENTURY HORSE BOOK. 



GAS OR FLATULENT COLIC. 

This is usually caused by over-feeding when too warm, or driv- 
ing too fast soon after leaving the stable. You should never trot your 
horses when leaving the stable until they have had two or three pass- 
ages of the bowels, and always make your fast drive on the "home- 
stretch." When a horse is driven too fast upon a full stomach, the 
food sours and an offensive gas is formed which can easily be detected 
as it passes from the animal. The animal will bloat badly and keep 
pointing his nose toward his flank where the greatest pain lies. The 
pain causes a contraction of the rectum and the gas is retained in the 
bowels. 




sp& WfWS 



First Stage of Flatulent Colic. 



How to recognize it: The horse rolls, kicks, paws, tries to lie on 
his back, gets up and down, sweats profusely, has a haggard look in 
his face, gulps wind and food from the stomach in small quantities 
through his nose, and the food thus discharged is usually green and 
very sour. The nostrils are distended, breathing rapid and breath 
cold from the shallow breathing. The pulse is quickened at the start, 
but gradually grows harder and smaller as the fatal termination ap- 
proaches. The belly becomes so distended that the flanks are above 
the points of the hips, and in some cases, when lying down, the legs 
are so spread from the distention of the belly that the animal is una- 
ble to get up. If it lasts very long the nervous system becomes ex- 
hausted; the muscles around the chest, shoulders and neck cramp and 
draw down so as to almost pull the horse to the ground, and he will 
sometimes scream out like a child from the pain. The ears and ex- 
tremities get deathly cold. 

If rupture takes place he will sit on his haunches like a dog, 
turn up his upper lip as though nauseated and try to vomit; but ow- 



morgan's treatment and training. 



83 



ing to the peculiar formation of the stomach the horse cannot vomit. 
The pulse gets weaker and smaller till he falls and dies from nervous 
exhaustion. When he dies in earlier stages it is from suffocation. 
The distention of the stomach and bowels presses on the lungs so hard 
that it forces them up into so small a compass that they cannot work, 
and suffocation is the result. 

Favorable symptoms are cessation of pain, free evacuation of gas by 
the rectum; pulse returns to its normal condition, ears and extrem- 
ities regain their natural temperature, sweating stops and the horse 
returns to his feed and customary habits. 

Treatment: Give Prince's Colic Cure as directed on page 75. 
Give injections of warm soap suds, adding one half ounce spirits of 
turpentine to the bucketful. 

Apply externally the White Liniment to the abdomen over the in- 
testines. If this does not relieve him the instrument called a trocar 
must be used. Stick the sharp point into the flank on the right side, 




Trocar for Horse. 

and pull out the handle, leaving the tube in the animal, through 
which the gas may escape. This always proves successful. After 
the gas escapes and your horse is easy, remove the tube and grease 
the wound inflicted thereby. There is no danger in this operation. 

BLOOD COLIC, OR RETENTION OF URINE. 

With this colic the horse will be down 
often. He very seldom bloats until nearly 
dead. When standing on his feet he will 
stretch out, strain badly,- and sometimes pass 
a little water, which is generally of a dark, 
reddish color. He will point his nose to his 
flank, the same as a horse with the gas colic; 
but there is seldom any bloating, hence, he 
will need no injection. 
Symptoms of Diseases of Treatment: Use Prince's Colic Cure as 

Urinary Organs. directed on page 75. 




DO NOT DRENCH THROUGH THE NOSE. 

In giving medicine to a horse he should not be drenched through 
the nose, because if strong medicine is given in this manner it is very 



84 TWENTIETH CENTURY HORSE BOOK. 

injurious and extremely dangerous, for the reason that horses cannot 
breathe through the mouth like humans, and when strong medicine 
is given by drenching through the nose, it is sure to enter the lungs 
and liable to cause death in a few minutes from strangulation; and if 
death does not result it leaves a cough which is apt to cause inflam- 
mation of the bronchial tubes. 

INFLAMMATION OF THE STOMACH AND BOWELS. 

This disease is often mistaken for colic. There is however, a 
vast difference. The difference is that it is continuous, while colic is 
intermittent. 

Treatment: There is very little can be done to relieve a horse 
afflicted with a bad case of this kind. Use Prince's Colic Cure 
internally, White Liniment on the belly, and give injections of warm 
water, with a drachm of fluid extract of belladonna to.the bucketful. 

COUGHS AND COLDS. 

When a horse has taken cold and 
coughs from it, there w r ill nearly always 
be a discharge from the nose. He should 
be kept warm and not allowed to stand in 
a draught. 

Strangles Treatment: Use the Fever Drops as 

directed on page 76, and rub White Lini- 
ment around the throat. In bad cases use the inhalation process on 

page 81. 

SORE THROAT. 

Give Fever Drops and rub White Liniment on the throat. 

HORSE DISTEMPER. 

All catarrhal affections are classed by horse owners under the 
common head of distemper. Common catarrh, epizootic or epidemic 
catarrh, laryngitis, bronchitis and all other diseases of this nature, 
arise from the same causes, hence, require similar treatment. It is 
now generally admitted that this class of diseases is attributable, in a 
degree to impure blood; therefore, in order to treat the disease cor- 
rectly and eliminate it from the system, we must purify the blood. 

Treatment: Give Fever Drops as directed, use the White Lini- 
ment on the throat, and give Haarlem Oil as directed. If abscess forms, 




morgan's treatment and training. 



85 



open it, so that pus can escape. There is a great deal of danger in 
opening these abscesses. (Hemorrhage and cutting the saliva 
glands. ) The safe way to open an abscess is to grasp the skin over 
the same with left hand and pull out and make an incision with a 
knife in the skin and cut out. Then use a blunt pointed probe and 
work through muscles into the abscess. Then dilate it with the fin- 



gers. 



I have found a lead pencil to answer as a probe in these cases. 



N catarrhal fever. 

An acute contagious fever with catarrhal inflammation of the mu- 
cuous membrane of the eyes and respiratory organs, occasionally in- 
volving the gastric-intestinal and urinary membranes, usually of two 
to four weeks' duration. If it should develop in a stable the horse should 
be isolated and kept away from all other horses. The disease is lia- 
ble to spread and affect all the horses exposed, it being very 
contagious. 

Symptoms: It resembles distemper, but differs in that the legs 

and joints swell. 

Treatment: Same as in distemper. 

INFLAMMATION OF THE LUNGS AND PNEUMONIA. 

This disease is caused by over-exertion, sudden checking of per- 
spiration, impure air, etc. The symptoms are cold ears and legs, 




Commencement of Inflammation of the Lungs. 

cold, clammy sweat on the body, shivering, the ears droop forward, 
the poor beast breathes short and evinces pain from any exertion. 



86 TWENTIETH CENTURY HORSE BOOK. 

He has a hacking cough that hurts him, and he stands with his legs 
bracing. He loses his appetite, does not drink well, and never lies 
down until he gets better or drops dead. He soon dies of acute con- 
gestion unless relief is obtained. 

The animal should be blanketed and his limbs should be rubbed 
thoroughly and then bandaged with heavy woolen bandages. Give 
him fresh air, but do not allow him to stand in a draught. 

Treatment: Give Fever Drops and rub White Liniment on the 
chest, over the lungs and around the throat. If the horse is weak, 
give one ounce of whiskv in milk three times a dav. Dose with 
Prince's Colic Cure every other day. 

DROPSY. 

Dropsy is rather the result of disease; generally following 
catarrhal fever and distemper, or result of the peculiar condition of 
the system, than a disease itself. It depends upon a debilitated con- 
dition, the result of other weakening diseases, especially of the kid- 
neys. It is the want of proper circulation, indigestion, and some- 
times comes from diseased and irregular teeth. 

Treatment: Give General Tonic and Blood Powders, page 79. 

BRONCHITIS. 

Inflammation of the lining membrane of the windpipe and small- 
er air tubes leading to the lungs, characterized by a hoarse cough and 
shortness of breath. 

Treatment: Same as in lung fever or pneumonia. 

PLEURISY. 

An inflammation of the membrane which covers the lungs and 
lines the chest, followed by the secretion of a large quantity of watery 
fluid inside this membrane, and consequent pressure on the lungs. It 
may be one or both sides, and last from seven to fourteen days. 

Treatment: Same as in lung fever. 

INFLAMMATION OF THE KIDNEYS. 



With this disease the animal becomes dull and needs urging, 
shows signs of intense pain; seems to be stiff in the loins and hind 
legs; does not care to lie down; flinches when pressure is given over 
the kidneys. 



morgan's treatment and training. 87 



give 



Treatment: Use White Liniment on the back over the kidneys; 
Prince's Colic Cure and Haarlem Oil. 

DIABETES. 

The habitual excessive discharge of urine. This is caused by 
the feeding of millet that has grown too rank, sugar cane, mouldy 
food of various kinds, musty, mouldy oats and hay and spoiled bran. 

Symptoms: Keeping the stall wet with urine; the urine is clear, 
but with little or no odor and amounts to three or four gallons daily. 
The appetite fails but there is a great thirst; the pulse is weak, some- 
times slower and sometimes faster than natural. 

Treatment: Give the Blood Powders, page 79. 

BLACK WATER OR HEMATURIA. 

This disease is characterized by a large amount of blood in the 
urine. It may be due to injury, local disease, general disorder or 
the presence of entozoa. 

Treatment: Use Prince's Colic Cure and Haarlem Oil. 

HEAVES. 

Powdered camphor 1^ ounces 

Powdered opium ll A ounces 

Powdered digitalis - i# ounces 

Powdered calomel i# ounces 

Mix and divide into twenty-four powders. Give one night and 
morning until twelve are given. Then give Reliable Physic, page 
78. Then give the other twelve powders the same as before. 

BLIND OR SLEEPY STAGGERS. 

This disease is caused by over feed, over exercise .in hot weather, 
or eatino- corn stalks or other food containing too much woody fibre. 
Such food is too dry, has no nutriment in it, hence the animal cannot 
digest it He hangs his head, falls asleep, and sometimes becomes 
unconscious. His eyes are or seem to be, insensible to the light. 
Sometimes he plunges about and falls backward. 

Treatment: Give Reliable Physic, page 78, Prince's Colic Cure, 
and keeo an ice bag on his head. Rub White Liniment on the back. 
Do not let the animal have any food for at least twelve hours. 



88 



TWENTIETH CENTURY HORSE BOOK. 



FISTULA AND POLL EVIL. 

Fistula and poll evil are the same thing, only the location is dif- 
ferent, and are the same as a carbuncle on the human. 

Fistula comes on the withers and poll evil on the poll, back of 
the ears. 

Fistula comes from bruises and bites, or from rolling on a hard 
substance, or from a low stable, striking his withers against the sta- 





A bad case of Fistula. Poll Evil. 

ble. Poll evil comes from checking the head too high, from pulling 
at the halter or by jerking the bridle too hard. 

Treatment: Is the same for both diseases. If noticed when the 
inflammation is in an incipient state, use the White Liniment. If it 
is of long standing and pus has not formed, use Caustic Blister. If 
pus has formed, open it to the bottom and give the sack a good 
draining. Use the Carbolized Iodine as directed on page 78. If 
there is a running sore split to the bottom with a knife and use the 
Carbolized Iodine once a day. After the pipes are destroyed use the 
Healing Oil, which will keep the flies away and heal the sore. A 
fistula or poll evil should be bathed thoroughly once a day with hot 
water to allay inflammation. 

The operation for fistula is a very painful one and a local anaes- 
thetic injection should be used. . The sufferings of the horse from the 
old fogy treatments of this disease have been intense, and some people 
are so cruel that they do not care for the suffering of the poor animal, 
but will allow any ignorant fool to practice upon him. Some cut the 
end of the tail off, while others break glass into small particles and 
pour it into the ears, and other cruel remedies too numerous to 
mention. 

DIARRHEA. 



Give Prince's Colic Cure, page 75. 



morgan's treatment and training. 



89 



dislocation of the hip, etc. 



Figures 1 and 3 show where 
the socket of the hip was broken, 
and nature throwing out deposits, 
a new hip was formed. 

Figure 2. This is the tibia 
bone of colt that I threw to oper- 
ate upon and in struggling broke 
his leg. This shows the condi- 
tion; it was chalky and had no 
oily substance. 

Figure 4. Showing a section 
of the pelvis bone, cut at the hip 
joint, and shows a fracture of ili- 
um, or commonly called hipped. 
Figure 5. Is one of the dorsal vertebrae showing the diseases of the top or one of 
the pus pockets, caused by fistula. 

TUMORS. 




The only certain treatment for tumors 
is the knife. After removing the tumor it 
should be thoroughly seared with hot iron 
until all the hemorrhage is stopped. Ap- 
ply the Carbolized Iodine, page 78, once a 
day. If the tumor is near the foot it is 
apt to enlarge the tendons. In that case 
apply the Caustic Blister. After the tum- 
or is killed, use the Healing Oil, page 75. 
A tumor or wart should be removed when 
it first appears, as it is then an easy 
matter. The illustration shows a tumor 
that had been allowed to go too long, and 
grew into the pastern joint. I refused to operate 
too late. 

TO STOP BLOOD. 




If from an artery: Take up the end with artery forceps and tie 
with a silk thread or cauterize it with a hot iron. Chloride of iron is 
also used with satisfactory results in the stopping of hemorrhage; 
alum and flour are used in the absence of these remedies, by binding to 
the bleeding parts. In the absence of any medicine wrap cotton on 
the cut or wound and bind tightly. 



90 TWENTIETH CENTURY HORSE BOOK. 

RHEUMATISM. 

Give Blood Powders, page 79, and Haarlem Oil. Use White 
Liniment on the affected parts. 

CHOKING. 

Symptoms: Are violent efforts to swallow, throat and neck are 
spasmodically drawn up and often the substance which chokes the 
animal is visible, or can be felt with the hand passed down the front 
part of the neck. There is great agony and a look of distress, cold 
sweats and exhaustion. 

Treatment: Drench the animal with two ounces of glycerine, 
and then tie to a post, so he cannot move away, and with the help of 
one man, take an inch rope and stand on each side the horse. Grasp 
each end of the rope, allowing it to rest against the neck on the under 
side, and work back and forth, up and down from throat latch to 
breast, causing severe friction, and the horse will cough violently 
and spasmodic action of the esophagus will dislodge the obstacle. 
Sometimes I give the second dose of glycerine. The old practice of 
running a whip handle down the throat causes rupture and this 
proves more fatal than the choking. I have been called to see cases 
that had been choked for twenty-four hours and have removed the 
obstacle in five minutes. 

SCRATCHES OR GREASE HEEL. 

These diseases are an inflammation of the skin of the heel, and 
very seldom come on the front feet. 

Use the Healing Oil, page 75, externally, and for grease heel, 
give in addition, the Blood Powders, page 79. 

THRUSH. 

This is a disagreeable discharge of offensive matter from the cleft of 
the "frog" in the foot, and may be caused either by a bruise or filth. 
The foot should be cleaned out and cut down as thin as possible. 
Use Healing Oil, page 75. 

MUD FEVER. 

It originates through uncleanness, exposure, mud and water, 
melting snow. It is of the same nature as grease heel or scratches, dif- 
fering only in the legs' swelling high up. 




morgan's treatment and training. 91 

Treatment: Same as in grease heel, and give in addition, Fever 
Drops, page 76. 

BOTS. 

Many persons think bots kill horses, but 
while I have not space to explain it, I will say 
that it is natural for horses to have bots, and 
Bot and Gad-fly. they are harmless. 

STIFLE LAMENESS, OR DISLOCATION OF THE PATELLA. 

The stifle joint of a horse is the same as the knee joint of a man, 
and when a horse is stifled his knee cap is dislocated and slips to the 
outside of the knee. The cause of cramps in the hind legs of young 
mules is that the cartilage around the joints is too loose, and allows 
the patella to slip up and catch on the edge of the bone. 

Treatment: Take hold of the hamstring with one hand and pull 
out, at the same time press the knee cap in towards the body with the 
other hand, and it will slip into place. Do not allow anyone to put 
on your horse that relic of barbarism called a stifle shoe. It is worse 
than useless, and is a cruel thing. 

WEAK EYES. 
Apply Kye Water, page yy. Keep the animal in a dark place. 

PERIODICAL OPTHALMIA, OR "MOON BLINDNESS." 

The moon has nothing to do with this trouble, but it is so named 
because it comes on periodically. It is a change the system undergoes. 
Use Eye Water, page yy, and give the Blood Powders, page 79. 

SORE AND INFLAMED EYES. 

Use the Kye Water, page 77, bathe the eyes in warm water, and 
give the Reliable Physic, page 79. 

LOCK-JAW OR TETANUS. 

There are two kinds: Symptomatic or traumatic is the result of a 
wound; idiopathic is caused by too much alkali in the digestive tract. 
Symptoms are alike in both kinds of tetanus. The first thing noticed 
will be the haw of the eye drawn over the eye ball, showing more of 
the haw and less of the eye; the nose protruded, the neck straightened, 



92 



TWENTIETH CENTURY HORSE BOOK. 



the tail elevated and trembling. He never lies down. If not relieved 
death usually follows in from three days to three weeks. 




Horse Suffering from Lock-jaw. 

Treatment: Very few recover from traumatic tetanus. Give 
Prince's Colic Cure, page 75, and use the inhalation process, page 81. 
If it is the idiopathic form, it yields more readily to treatment. Give 
Reliable Physic, page 78, and Prince's Colic Cure, page 75. Rub 
White Liniment on the back, and keep in a quiet place. 

FOUNDER, OR LAMINITIS. 

Inflammation of sensitive laminae of the feet. 

Treatment: Bathe the feet in hot water for half a day at a time. 
Use White Liniment, page 74, on the feet and legs up to the knees 
after bathing. Give Prince's Colic Cure, page 75. Give Reliable 
Physic, page 78, after the fourth or fifth day. 

SIT FASTS. 

These are callous tumors on the back, the result of saddle gall, 
or on the shoulder caused from collar boils. 

Treatment: If of old standing and hard, use the knife and cut 
them out and dress the parts with Healing Oil, page 75. 

SORE NECK AND SHOULDERS. 

Use Healing Oil, page 75, twice a day. 

s 
COLLAR BOILS. 

Use White Liniment, page 74. 



morgan's treatment and training. 



93 



CRIBBING OR STUMP SUCKING. 

It is caused by the teething in colts. It is neuralgia of the teeth, 
and to get relief they press the teeth against the manger and form the 
habit of sucking wind. I have experimented a great deal and have 
failed to find a cure. The fake remedy is to inject tincture of iodine 
around the roots of the teeth and into the gums. This will often stop 
it for two of three weeks. 



LYMPHANGITIS. 

This disease is some- 
times called elephant leg or 
milk leg, and if of long stand- 
ing is incurable. 

Treatment: Give Blood 
Powders, page 79, and Fever 
Drops, page 77. Bathe the 
leg in warm water. 

Horse with Lymphangitis (Milk Leg.) 

TO MAKE A HORSE SHED HIS HAIR AND LOOK SLEEK. 

Give him a teaspoonful of hyposulphite of soda in his feed night 
and morning for a week or ten days. This will also work on cattle, 
and rid them of ticks. Give cattle a tablespoonful at a dose. 



CHRONIC GLANDERS. 

Symptoms: In chronic glanders the animal has a 
ragged, greenish looking ulcer in the nose, and is 
accompanied by a cough, and possibly the animal 
will keep in good flesh and live a year or so. Illustra- 
tion shows horse with glanders in the last stage when 





Glanders. 



the pus is mixed with blood from extensive sloughing. 



SWEENY. 



This is caused by bad-fitting collars or diseased feet. Lameness 
in the feet will cause the shoulder muscles to waste away from lack of 
proper action. 

Treatment: Use the Caustic Blister as directed on page yy. 



94 



TWENTIETH CENTURY HORSE BOOK. 



WORMS. 



Drench the horse with a quart of water to which has been added 
i}4 ounces of creolin. This should be given on an empty stomach. 
Four days later give Reliable Physic, as directed on page 78. 



PIN-WORMS. 



They inhabit the large intestines, the rectum usually, and some- 
times the colon, and cause the horse to rub his tail. They are easily 
destroyed by injection of one ounce of chloroform and two ounces of 
water. Inject once a day for three days. 



NASAL GLEET. 

There is a continual flow of thick, offensive, yel- 
lowish matter, that will usually sink in water. One 
nostril usually runs more than the other, and often 
times the chronic trouble is entirely confined to 
one side. The face between the eyes will be found to 
be full and bulged out. 

Treatment: If there is a bulging in the bone it 
should be trephined, and an opening made so that the 
pus can escape, then take a syringe and inject into the 
hole, and up the nostrils the Healing Oil, page 75. 
Give the Blood Powders, page 79. 

MANGE. 




Horse affect- 
ed with nasal 
gleet and bul- 
ging of the 
frontal sinus. 



Apply Healing Oil, page 75, once a day and give the Blood Pow- 
ders, page 79. 

BARB WIRE CUTS. 

Use Healing Oil, page 75. If of long standing and proud flesh 
has formed, use the Carbolized Iodine, page 78. Dust it once a day 
with air-slacked lime. The Healing Oil will keep the flies off. 

AZOTURIA, OR KIDNEY AFFECTION. 

A kidney trouble of uncertain origin. It occurs in horses that 
have been rested a day or two, and frequently when they are ap- 
parently in their best condition. After driving an hour or so the an- 
imal will slacken his gait, and act as if crippled in the hind legs, 



morgan's treatment and training. 



95 



break out in a sweat, and show that he is in intense pain. Then he 
will get down and the hind legs be paralyzed, and the muscles of the 
back over the kidneys will be swollen. The author has been very- 
successful in treating this disease. 

Treatment: Give Prince's Colic Cure, page 75, Haarlem Oil, 
page 79, and use White Liniment (page 74) on the back. Put 
blankets steeped in hot water on his back. The second day give Re- 
liable Physic, page 78, and draw the urine with a catheter. 

capped hock. 

Use White Liniment, page 74. 

SHOE BOIL. 

This comes right on the elbow from lying on the calk of a shoe 
in narrow stalls. Use Caustic Blister, page yy. 



HIDE BOUND, OR INDIGESTION. 

Give Blood Powders, page 79, and one dose Reliable Physic, 
page 78. 

BONE SPAVIN. 

This disease is so well known that I omit the symptoms. When 
the lameness first comes use White Liniment, page 74. If of a 
month's standing use Caustic Blister, page yy. After 
the enlargement becomes bone, firing is the best rem- 
edy. This operation is performed by heating red-hot 
a sharp-pointed instrument, and running it into the 
bony enlargement seven or eight times. Then use 
the Caustic Blister. Under the best 
treatment about six out of ten get well. 
The bony enlargement cannot be re- 
moved. 

The most peculiar thing about a 
Position of bone spavin is that a horse affected 
foot and leg w ith it is sure to limp when trotting, 

with Bone . - r . 

Spavin. though he may not limp when walking. Bone Spavin. 





RING BONE AND SIDE BONE. 



These are the same as spavin, except they are located in different 
places. They call for the same treatment as spavin. 



9 6 



TWENTIETH CENTURY HORSE BOOK. 



SOUND AND DISEASED HOCK JOINTS. 

M> 1. //o 2. JVo<5. 




wm : 

' : '^^:^^ 




Figure I represents a sound hock joint. Figures 2 and 3 show the bony growth in 
joints, resulting from spavin. 

HIGH SPAVIN. 

An enlargement of the upper and inner part of the hock and 
should be treated the same as bone spavin. 

OCCULT SPAVIN. 

This disease is similar to bone spavin, except there is no enlarge- 
ment or external showing. The symptoms are the same as in bone 
spavin. Use the same treatment as in bone spavin. 

My experience teaches me that this disease is very rare. 

• AN OLD DISEASE. 

Bone spavin has been known as long as horses have been used. 
"Bobby" Burns referred to it in his poem, "The Inventory/ ' 
as follows: 

But ance, when in my wooing pride, 

I, like a blockhead boost to ride, 
The wilfu' creature sae I pat to 

(Lord, pardon a' my sins, and that too!) 
I play'd my filly sic a shavie, 

She's a bedevil'd wi' the spavie. 

WIND GALLS AND SOFT PUFFS. 

Use the Iodine Ointment, page 88. 



morgan's treatment and training. 



97 



SPECIMENS OF DISEASED BONES. 




Figure i is a bony tumor on the backbone from an injury to the top of one of the 
dorsals. The injury was caused by the careless manner of putting on a saddle. 

Figure 2 shows the end of the shoulder blade with a growth on it — what is com- 
monly called big shoulder. 

Figure 3 shows a very bad ankylosis joint and ringbone. This is caused by 
one prong of a pitchfork penetrating the joint and afterward receiving no treatment. 

Figures 4 and 5. Figure 5 is one of the dorsal vertebrae that was diseased, caused 
by fistula. 

Figure 4 shows the knee joint, where there is a growth, and the whole joint is al- 
most destroyed. 

Figure 6 is an elbow joint of a mule that was kicked; as can be seen by the cut 
there is a growth on the joint. 

Figure 7 is a section of the backbone where it is grown together. 

BLOOD SPAVIN. 

A dilation of the vein that runs along the inside of the hock, 
forming a soft swelling. There is no very satisfactory treatment. Take 
up the veins and ligate them above the enlargement. 

BOG SPAVIN. 

This is a rupture of the covering of the tendon. 
Treatment: Use Iodine Ointment, page 78. 

THOROUGHPIN. 

This is of the same nature as bog spavin — the only difference is 
that it comes above the hock joint and in the hollow under the ham 
string. The treatment is the same as in bog spavin. 



SNAKE OR INSECT BITES. 

Use White Liniment, page 74. Give Prince's Colic Cure, 
page 75. 



9 8 



TWENTIETH CENTURY HORSE BOOK. 




CURB. 

A hard, callous swelling on the hinder part 
of the hock. 

Treatment: Use Iodine Ointment, page 78. 

SPLINTS. 



A Curb. 



Use the Iodine Ointment, page 78, 



SPECIMENS OF DISEASED BONES. 




Figure 1 shows a bad case of splint interfering with knee joint, that was cured by 
the author by firing and the animal never showed any more lameness, leaving only 
an enlarged place. 

Figure 2 shows a severe case of ringbone and was incurable; both pastern joints 
were entirely destroyed. 

Figure 3 is a case of bone spavin that was cured by firing. It can be seen from 
the cut that the small bones (tarsus,) of the hock are ankylosed or grown together. 
This relieved the pain and caused the animal to use the upper joint of the hock. 
There were no signs of lameness any more, only an enlargement, and he was worked 
very hard for three years before he died. 

Figure 4 shows a very bad ringbone and side bones. 

Figure 5 is the hind leg of a cow, showing where same had knitted together after 
a fracture. 

Figure 6 shows a mule's front leg, from the knee down, after the skin was re- 
moved, showing tendons, etc. 



morgan's treatment and training. 



99 





, Mare with an abdominal her- 

Showing how to apply a bandage on a colt nia. Ruptured in foaling. No 
that is ruptured in the navel. cure for such a case> 

HOW TO BANDAGE A RUPTURED COLT. 

Take heavy ducking, wide enough to reach from the fore legs to 
the hind legs. Split it down from each end every three or four 
inches apart, and this will give you a number of ends to tie together 
on his back. Make a pad as follows: Take a piece of harness 
leather, 4 by 6 inches. Wrap it in four or five thicknesses of the 
ducking. Melt harness wax and smear it on one side of the pad, and 
while still hot and sticky place it on the navel. Then put on the 
bandage of ducking and tie it. Place padding on each side of the 
back bone to keep the knots in the ducking from making the 
back sore. 

FOUL SHEATH. 




The sheath of a horse needs cleaning about 
four times a year. In cleaning it, care should 
be used not to scratch or cut the lining of same 
with the finger nails. Use castile soap, sponge 
and soft warm water. The person washing 
the sheath should understand his business and 
be sure to remove the bean from the penis 

above the urethra, as this causes more harm than anything else. 

Grease the inside with olive oil, then take a dry sponge and wipe out 

the oil to prevent the dust and dirt from accumulating. 

LofC. 



Foul Sheath. 



IOO 



TWENTIETH CENTURY HORSE BOOK. 



DISEASES OF THE FOOT OF THE HORSE. 




Skeleton of the Horse's Foot. 

Figure i, lower end of the 
long pastern bone. 

Figure 2, Coronary bone. 
Figure 3, Navicular bone. 
Figure 4, Coffin bone. 



A navicular bone is a small bone 
of very great importance and interest 
to veterinaries, because injury and in- 
flammation of surface tissues is a fre- 
quent cause of lameness and is called 
navicular diseases. 

The navicular bone bears no part 
of the weight, but is inserted for the 
purpose of giving increased leverage 
power to the tendon which passes from 
the long coffin bone backward over the 
navicular bone and up the limb. 

I give here for non-professionals an 
idea of the structure of the foot; for it 
is a well known fact, "no foot, no 
horse." 



HOW TO DETECT LAMENESS. 



Every one who owns a horse should be a close investigator to de- 
tect the lameness in a horse. It is easy to ascertain lameness in the 
shoulders, by taking up the suspected limb and placing it in three 
different, unnatural positions. First, hold the animal's head level, 
pick up the limb, place one hand on the toe and stretch the limb out 
at a straight angle directly in front. Second, raise the limb and 
place it on the outside of the opposite limb at about the height of the 
knee. Third, pick up the limb and pull it with force directly to- 
ward the hind limb; and if there be any pain the animal will in- 
dicate it while his limbs are out of their natural position, and you can 
locate the lameness. 

The position of shoulder lameness is the pointing backward, the 
knee bent, and the feet behind each other, and the toe only touching 
the ground. To recognize navicular diseases, the animal is pointing 
the affected limb from ten to fifteen inches, forward, stumbles very 
freely, and when the heel is raised to about an inch, he will bring the 
foot in equal line of the non-affected limb. I will have to mention to 
my readers, that every one who finds an interest in the welfare of the 
horse, with close observation, can easily detect the lameness if he ob- 
serves the animal while at rest and in motion. I, therefore, 



morgan's treatment and training. ioi 

shall give here a table for non-professional horsemen to guide them- 
selves by: 

SYMPTOMS WHEN AT REST. 

SYMPTOMS. SIGNIFICANCE. 

Pointing one fore foot in front of the 

other, Lameness of the leg. 

The forearm extended, knee bent, the 

feet about on a line with each other Lameness of the elbow. 

The limb relaxed, the knee bent, the feet 

behind each other, Lameness of the shoulder. 

Hind foot bent, knuckling over, Lameness of hind foot. 

Hind leg in front of its fellow, Lameness in or below the hock. 

Hind feet brought forward under the 

belly; head reared, Lameness in both fore feet. 

Fore feet pushed back beneath the chest; 

head hanging, Lameness in both hind feet. 

SYMPTOMS WHEN IN MOTION. 

SYMPTOMS. SIGNIFICANCE. 

Head nodding or dipping, Lameness in the fore-quarters. 

Foot lifted quickly, straight up, Lameness of foot or hock. 

Foot swung in a circle, not much ele- 
vated, Lameness of shoulder. 

Foot brought down toe first, Side-bone sprain of back sinews, sprain 

of suspensory ligament. 

Foot brought down heel first, Founder, os pedis. 

Little or no lameness at first, but in- 
creased on motion, Splint or side-bone. 

More or less lameness at first, but dimin- 
ishing on motion, Navicular disease. 

Little or no lameness in a straight trot, 
but observable on turning sharply, Strained back. 

SHAKY KNEES OR BUCK KNEES. 

The old way of treating this disease is to lower the heel and 
raise the toe in shoeing, but this is exactly what should not be done. 
Raise the heel and lower the toe and this will relieve the strain on 
the tendons. To illustrate: If a man's legs are sore in the calf, cut 
the heels off his shoes and let him walk a distance. The soreness 
will increase. Try raising the heels, and relief will follow. Soreness 
in the tendons is what makes a horse buck kneed. 

INTERFERING. 

Shoe with side weights. Pare the foot level and if it does not 
work on one side change to the other, that is change from right to left 



102 



TWENTIETH CENTURY HORSE BOOK. 



and from left to right. If this does not prevent interfering put on a 
piece of leather under the shoe and have it project about one half inch 
on the inside of each foot. This will cause the horse to travel wider 
apart and therefore prevent his interfering. If he strikes his ankles 
the leather will strike first and not hurt as the shoe would. This is 
only used in bad cases. 





Fore feet of a horse that had been neg- 
lected after being: foundered. 



Mule with dislocated neck. 



NARROW HEEL OR CONTRACTED FEET. 

Pare the bottom of the foot down thin and open the heel wide; 
pack it with oakum and Venice turpentine, and place leather under the 
shoe to hold the packing. Use Caustic Blister around the top of hoof. 

OVERREACHING AND FORGING. 

To prevent or keep a horse from overreaching, shoe with a 
heavy shoe in front with a rolling motion and a light shoe behind, 
and set well back under the toe of the hind foot. 

PUNCTURED WOUNDS FROM NAILS. 



Pare the nail hole out good and clean, and pour in Carbolized 
Iodine, page 78, to destroy the germs. If very bad pack the foot with 
oakum and Venice turpentine, and put a piece of leather on to hold it 
in place. Use White Liniment around the top. Never poultice a foot 
for this trouble; it softens the foot and makes it very tender, and it is 
often three months before it eets over it. 



morgan's treatment and training. 



103 



STUMBLING. 



Trim the horse's foot long and narrow, front and hind the same. 
A horse with a short, light foot will stumble more than one with 



a long foot. 




Showing a Corn. 



TREATMENT FOR CORNS. 

Cut out the corn until it bleeds. Then burn it 
with a hot iron until the bleeding stops. Fill the 
hole with Venice turpentine, and pack the foot with 
oakum and Venice turpentine, putting a piece of 
leather under the shoe to hold it in place. Blister 
lightly over the coronet band with Caustic Blister, 
page yy. 

FOOT LINIMENT. 



Crude petroleum 2 ounces 

Oil of tar 1 ounce 

Neatsfoot oil 16 ounces 



Mix. Apply once a day. 
stimulate the growth. 

Ho 3. 




This will soften a hard foot and 



Figure 1 shows a ring 
bone that was cured by 
firing. Near the top of the 
figure is shown a fracture 
of the splint bone. 

Figure 2 shows four 
inches of hoof cut from a 
horse's foot on which a 
shoe had been left for a 
year. After cutting off 
the four inches there was 
enough left for a good 
hoof. 

Figure 3 shows an an- 
kylosed pastern joint. 
The lameness caused by 
ring bone had been re- 
moved by firing. 



io 4 



TWENTIETH CENTURY HORSE BOOK. 



CASTRATION OF COLTS, OLD STALLIONS AND RIDGLINGS. 



Since it is necessary to perform this cruel and painful operation to 
make the horse a more useful animal, it should be done in the most 
humane manner. I have, during my practice, castrated thousands of 
colts, ridglings and stallions. I have castrated them in winter and 
summer, all seasons of the year. I have operated upon them from two 
days old up to twenty-eight years of age and obtained good results. 




Method of Slitting Scrotum. 

The time for castrating the colt is from twelve to fourteen months 
old. There are some who claim that the colt should be castrated earlier 
than this, but from my experience he is more liable to rupture and 
leaves a poor sheath. 

Do not operate on a thin, weakly colt, nor upon one suffering 
from disease. 

The animal should be in good order and fit for the operation. 
The colt should be kept from feed the night before. Be very 
careful that all the instruments required for the operation be scrupu- 
lously clean, and the knife sharp. After each operation they should 
be thoroughly cleansed and dipped in an antiseptic, and the scrotum 
should be thoroughly cleansed with a sponge dipped in a watery solu- 
tion of creolin. 



morgan's treatment and training. 



™5 




Emasculator . 

In nearly all the operations that I perform I use Haussmann & 
Dunn's Emasculator. 

Draw up the skin covering the seed with left hand, make an in- 
cision with a sharp pointed knife so as to expose the seed. Let it run 
parallel with medium line. Then the covering of the seed will be ex- 
posed called "tunica vaginalis;" then make another incision same as 
before in this covering. Grasp the seed with the left hand and sep- 




immmu 




Ecraseur. 

arate the muscles from the seed, sever the spermatic cord with the 
"Emasculator" or "Ecraseur," and apply freely to the opening the 
Healing Oil, page 75. 

Be sure and make opening large and leave no pockets in the scro- 
tum, so that there will be a possibility of pus being retained. 

The proper way to secure a colt for castration is to cast him with 
"Knowles' Casting Harness," which is the simplest and safest. 
Some operators claim that the best manner to operate is with a twitch 
on the colt standing. I have castrated over 500 colts standing, and it 
is more dangerous operating in this manner, and my experience proves 
this to me. I have castrated as many as 145 colts in one bunch with 



io6 



TWENTIETH CENTURY HORSE BOOK. 



u Knbwles' Casting Harness," and never had an accident. The place 
of operation should be an old straw stack or smooth plowed ground. 
The colt should never be thrown on hard ground. Operating on colts 
standing is an easy way for the operator but a dangerous one for the 




Ml 
1811 



Knowles' Web Casting Harness. 



colt. The operation has to be done as circumstances will permit, and 
not as it should be done. The opening is often left too small in the 
scrotum, and heals too soon, and pus often forms in it and causes 
blood poison. During one of my operations on a colt in a standing 
position, the colt gave a quick movement and I having a secure hold 
on the seed caused the cord to give way and death followed in thirty 
minutes. 

CASTRATION OF OLD STALLIONS. 



Always keep an old stallion without food for twenty-four hours 
before the operation. It is advisable to give him a stimulant just be- 
fore the operation. Give from a half pint to a pint of whisky in 
milk. The operation is performed the same as on a colt. Old stall- 
ions will sometimes bleed too much after castration; in which case sat- 
urate a sponge in alum w r ater and place it in the opening. Colic 
pains after castration come in from three to six hours. In such cases 
give from one to one and one-half ounces of laudanum. 



morgan's treatment and training. 



107 




vShowing the position of the hand in operating on a ridgling, with 
the abdominal cavity open, showing the testicle. 

CASTRATION OF ridglings (CRYPTORCHIDS. ) 




:~ *&<■£-} 






■■■ 










This is the removal of a testicle or testicles that have failed to 
descetfd into the scrotum, but have been retained in the inguinal canal 

or inside of the abdomen. This is 
an operation that one cannot be 
perfect in until he has had vast ex- 
perience. The reason for this is 
that the seeds are not found in the 
same position and alike in every 
horse, as all horses are not formed 
or constructed the same in the 
groin, and some are a great deal 
more nervous than others. Why 
the testicles go back into the ab- 
dominal cavity is not very well un- 
derstood, as it is a fact that every 
colt is foaled with the testicles in 
the scrotum; hence, the testicles 
return into the abdominal cavity 
before the ring closes, through the 
inguinal canal. 

There are three classes of ridg- 
lings, known as high flanker, low flanker and abdominal. 






Position of the testicle in the abdom 
inal cavity of a ridgling horse. 



IOS TWENTIETH CENTURY HORSE BOOK. 

The abdominal one is where the seeds are within the abdominal 
cavity with the intestines. 

The high flanker is one where the seed is up against the rim of 
the belly (inguinal ring.) 

The low flanker is one where the seed can be located by an ex- 
amination of the scrotum with the hand; 

In operating, the horse should be cast by the same method that 
is used in castrating colts, and given the same stimulant as old stall- 
ions. The horse should be turned on his back and the scrotum 
should be cleansed thoroughly with watery antiseptic solution. The 
hands should be thoroughly cleansed, being careful not to leave any 
foreign matter ( under the finger nails. Then insert a sharp pointed 
knife into the skin and slit it out. Pour plenty of the Healing Oil, 
page 75, into the incision. Then with the first two fingers of your 
right hand follow down the natural channel (inguinal canal,) until 
you come to the inguinal ring or lining of the belly. Here you will 
find a small opening, (this opening is sometimes closed, in which case 
the fingers should be pushed through,) through which pass the fingers 
and get hold of the spermatic cord or some of the attachments of the 
seed and pull the seed through the ring. (At this point is where 
most operators make a mistake by becoming too anxious and excited; 
after the fingers have passed through the ring they should be only 
slightly movQd, and in nearly every instance the attachments or seeds 
will drop into the finger.) After having pulled the seed through the 
opening, take it off with the emasculator if the cord is long enough. 

If the cord is too short to use the emasculator the ecraseur can 
be used. 

I have met with a great many different kinds of accidents in 
casting horses. I cast a nine-year-old horse, healthy and in good 
condition. Before I got through tying him properly he broke both of 
the femur bones all to pieces. 

Another case of an eight-year-old horse: Seemed healthy and 
in good shape. After securing him and while operating he strug- 
gled. On examining I found that the pelvis bone was broken in four 
different places. 

In another case, I found a dislocation of the hip joint with a 
fracture of the socket of the hip. In all these cases I attribute it to 
throwing them on hard ground. 

THE CONSEQUENCES OF CASTRATION. 

These are either favorable or unfavorable, normal or abnormal. 
The normal or natural results are a varvino; or slight decree of 



morgan's treatment and training. 109 

inflammation, some swelling, and a discharge of sernm or pus. 
The swelling which succeeds the operation varies very much in 
different subjects, in some limited to the sheath and consisting of a 
mere serosity, whilst in others it extends along the floor of the abdom- 
inal walls, even as far forward as the breast. This, however, need 
cause no alarm so long as the animal eats well, and usually a few punct- 
ures with the lancet, and also introducing the ringers into the incisions 
made in scrotum, will, by allowing the serum to drain away, cause its 
disappearance in a day or two; but when the cord becomes tumefied or 
swollen to any great extent, alarming consequences may be feared and 
endeavors must be made to suppress the inflammation, by the applica- 
tion of hot water, vinegar and salt mixed. Then grease the parts with 
pure fresh lard. 

The unfavorable consequences of castration are rupture, scirrhus 
of the cord, peritonitis, gangrene, lock-jaw, loss of eye-sight, blood 
poison, paralysis of the penis, hemorrhage and water seed. 

Hemorrhage need not occur if the operation is properly performed. 
A slight degree of bleeding from the vessels of the scrotum is of no 
importance. 

The admission of air' into the peritoneal sac, which often occurs 
when the horse rises after the operation and is demonstrated by a 
rushing or gurgling sound, never does any harm. 

Paraylsis is also recorded as a result, and in all probability it is 
due to some injury to the vertebrae or muscles of the back or loins, oc- 
curring while the animal is being secured for operation. The penis 
sometimes becomes paralyzed and the organ hangs suspended outside 
of the sheath and cannot be restored to its cavity. If pushed back it 
soon returns and even if retained by artificial means will remain in 
place only as long as the means are used to keep it there. The only 
radical cure is amputation, and this should be done only by an ex- 
perienced person. 

Lock-jaw may result from castration, although the operation has 
been carefully performed. It happens here as it does when caused by 
any wound or injury, and the operator cannot be held responsible, al- 
though attempts have been made to recover damages when death has 
so occurred. 

Blindness: The loss of eye-sight is caused by excessive bleed- 
ing after the operation. In some instances the sight has been re- 
stored in a few days, while in others the animal has remained per- 
manently blind. 



110 TWENTIETH CENTURY HORSE BOOK. 

Rupture is where the intestines come down alongside of the cord 
through the sac. This condition may be present before the operation 
is performed and where the sac is open the intestines will protrude. 
Should this occur, place the animal upon his back and work the in- 
testines into their proper place. Then take a small curved clamp and 
clamp the sac close up to the belly, or sew the sac with catgut sutures. 

Scirrhus cord comes from leaving the cord too long or bruising it 
while holding in the clamp to sear it and not making a clean 
operation. 

Treatment: Dissect it until a healthy part of the cord is reached, 
then remove it with the Emasculator or Kcraseur same as in cas- 
tration. 

HYDROCELE OR w 'WATERY SEED." 

This comes from neglect in removing enough of the cord and sac 
that surrounds the seed. Dissect all the sac that contains the water 
and get above the diseased parts and remove same as in scirrhus cord. 

In peritonitis, gangrene and blood poison, bathe the swollen 
parts with hot water, after which syringe the wounds thoroughly and 
bathe the swollen parts with White Liniment, page 74, and inject the 
Healing Oil, page 75, into the opening. 



TREATMENT OF MULES AND JACKS. 



A mule has as much sense as a horse but no principle. The 
mule does not differ materially from the horse in the diseases he is 
afflicted with. He however, surfers less from them owing to his lack 
of sensibility. There is no difference in the treatment of the horse 
and mule. 

The most common and fatal 
diseases among jacks are pneu- 
monia, lung fever, kidney disease 
and rheumatism. The treatment 
given for horses for these diseases 
is also applicable to jacks. 

SORES ON JACKS. 

In bad, raw cases use the Car- 

bolized Iodine, page 78, and give 

Blood Powders, page 79. To heal 

it use the Healing Oil, page 75. ^liiilllW PSWWiiii^ : x ^ %, 

This will also keep off the flies. 




morgan's treatment and training. 



Ill 



THE DOG. 




"Monte." 



The above picture is a good portrait of an- old friend of mine that 
traveled with me over fifteen states. 



COMMON DISEASES OF THE DOG, 



THE DISEASE OF PUPPYHOOD. 



The most destructive complaint to which puppies are subject is 
the stomach worm. The usual symptoms are lack of thrift, the dog 
being thin, hip bones prominent, the belly full or distended; restless- 
ness, bad breath, colic pains, irregularity of the bowels, variable ap- 
petite, and a harsh condition of the coat. 

Treatment: Twenty grains each of powdered aloes, jalap, gin- 
ger and soap; calomel, two grains; powdered wormwood, four grains. 
Mix and make into a pill with a little glycerine. This is a dose for 
a large dog. Give less to a small one. Give two doses, three days 




112 TWENTIETH CENTURY HORSE BOOK. 

apart. After these closes have been given, give a teaspoonful of tur- 
pentine in castor oil. 

DISTEMPER. 

This disease is similar to typhoid fever in a human being. The 
general symptoms are a high fever, hacking cough, mucous discharge 
from the nose and mouth; thirst, chills, loss of appetite, deranged con- 
dition of the bowels and rapid emaciation. 

Treatment: Feed on beef 
tea, raw eggs and milk. If 

■ ^I^^^W^S^fflHS^ very weak, give a tablespoonful 

tVxilP ^^ cod-liver oil and whisky, equal 

llPI parts. Give one teaspoonful 

^j pMjfe t. every two hours of the follow- 

Tincture aconite 30 drops 

Tincture belladonna 30 drops 

Sweet spirits nitre y 2 ounce 

Tincture gentian ]/ z ounce 

Glycerine 2 ounces 

Water to make 4 ounces 

Give fifteen drops of Haarlem Oil once a day. 

FITS. 
Keep the bowels open and give the following: 

Bromide of potash 2 drachms 

Water 6 ounces 

Mix. Give tablespoonful every two hours until relieved and 
give fifteen drops twice a day of Haarlem Oil. 

CONSTIPATION. 

Give Haarlem Oil, 15 drops, once a day, until relieved. 

DIARRHEA. 

Give two tablespoonfuls of hog's lard twice daily. 

SORE OR WEAK EYES IN DOGS. 

Use Haarlem Oil, placing in the corner of the eyes twice a day. 



morgan's treatment and training. 113 

MANGE. 

Wash the dog clean with good carbolic soap, and apply the fol- 
lowing salve thoroughly: 

Powdered sulphur : 2 ounces 

Powdered black antimony 2 ounces 

Lard 6 ounces 

SORE FEET FROM HUNTING. 

Make a paste of tannic acid and vinegar, and apply every night 
to his feet. 

TO SPAY A BITCH. 

This is a nice operation and it makes the best kind of a dog. I 
have spayed a great many bird dogs. They hunt better and mind 
better. The right way is to remove the fork parts of the uterus. 

Make the opening in the belly between the two last teats, and 
pass a probe in through the vagina to the uterus. Then run the fin- 
ger through the slit into the belly and you can feel the end of the 
probe; follow one fallopian tube with the finger to the ovary and pinch 
it off, then the other the same way; pull them out, tie just below the 
fork with catgut and cut off the tubes. Sew up the opening and dust 
the wound with iodoform. The bitch should be kept from food for 
twenty-four hours before being operated upon. After the operation 
feed on milk and gruel for a day or two, and if constipated give two 
tablespoonfuls of castor oil. Never spay a bitch while she is in heat. 
The best age is six months. 

POISONING. 

The first thing to be done when a dog has been poisoned is to 
give an emetic. A teaspoonful of each, mustard and salt in luke-warm 
water. If this does not vomit him in one minute repeat it. This is 
the remedy when the dog is discovered immediately after being pois- 
soned. If he is not found immediately after being poisoned give him 
all the hog lard that it is possible to pour into him. 



TO PREVENT PAIN WHILE PERFORMING AN OPERATION. 



Inject the following mixture hypodermically: 

Cocaine 26 grains 

Carbolic acid._ 20 drops 

Pure water 1 ounce 

Of the above use on a horse from ^ to 1 drachm; on a dog about 
10 drops. 



114 TWENTIETH CENTURY HORSE BOOK. 



CATTLE. 



All cattle should be dehorned. It makes them perfectly safe, 
and should be done to protect women and children if for no other rea- 
son. It should be done when the calf is about two weeks old, about 
the time the button appears and while it is still soft. Make a satur- 
ated solution of caustic potash and take a small brush or swab and ap- 
ply a little to each button. Leave it from a half to three-qarters of 
an hour, and then apply a strong solution of tannic acid and vinegar, 
which will neutralize the alkali. If they have grown enough to be- 
come horny, take a sharp instrument and cut them out. Then ap- 
ply the potash solution, following with vinegar and tannic acid. Be 
careful not to get any of the potash in the animal's eyes, or it will put 
them out. For dehorning older cattle the most satisfactory instru- 
ment I know of is the Eureka dehorner. Old cattle should be de- 
horned in cold weather. After the operation is performed apply the 
Healing Oil, page 75. In some cases the wound fails to heal and 

pus runs from the holes. If this occurs fill the holes w T ith air-slacked 
lime. 

LUMPY-JAW ( "ACTINOMYCOSIS. ' ' ) 

This is a parasitical, infectious disease, found chiefly on the 
tongue and jaw bones of cattle. The most frequent form, and one 
that is curable, is when the abscesses form about the jaws and teeth. 
The only treatment is the removal of the infected tissues. When the 
disease gets into the lungs or the digestive tract there is no known 
successful treatment. In order to gain a foothold on an animal the 
germ of this disease must reach a raw or sore place. It usually starts 
in the mouth, for the simple reason that so many animals have bad 
teeth, and consequently diseased jaws or sore tongues. In the early 
stage use Caustic Blister, page 97, applied freely, and if it draws the 
enlargement to a* head, lance it. If it has reached the stage where 
the tumors break and run, cut them out, and pack the opening with 
oakum and Carbolized Iodine, page 78. This should be done once a 
week for three weeks. A stitch or two should be taken to hold the 
oakum in place. This treatment, taken in time, will cure six out of 
ten. In working about this disease the operator should be very care- 
ful not to get inoculated with the germs. As soon as an animal is 
found to have the disease it should be separated from the rest of the 
herd, lest it inoculate others. 



morgan's treatment and training. 115 

sore feet in cattle. 
Use Healing Oil, page 75. 

DIARRHEA. 

Melt a quart of hog's lard and add two ounces of ginger. Give 
a cow as one dose; calves in proportion. 

AFTER PAINS IN COWS. 

Give as one dose the following: 

Powdered opium 1% drachms 

Powdered ginger 2 drachms 

Powdered gentian %. ounce 

SORE TEATS. 

Apply the following mixture once a day: 

Collodion 1 ounce 

Tannic acid 10 grains 

Glycerine 20 drops 

Carbolic acid 10 drops 

COLIC AND BLOATING. 

Give Prince's Colic Cure, page 75. If badly bloated use the 




Trocar. 

trocar or knife in left flank, allowing the gas to escape. 
INFLAMMATION OF THE UDDER, OR BAG. 

Apply White Liniment, page 74, to the inflamed parts. Give 
the following purgative: 

Powdered ginger 2 ounces 

Epsom salts \% ounces 

Haarlem Oil 1 bottle 

This is the best and safest physic I know of for cattle in all 
cases where they need a purgative. 



Il6 TWENTIETH CENTURY HORSE BOOK. 

BLACK LEG. 

I know of no cure. Garlic is used as a preventive; give about 
six bulbs a day to each animal. The experts at the U. S. Experi- 
ment Stations claim that vaccination is a preventive. 

MILK OR PARTURITION FEVER. 

Give the following dose: 

Powdered ginger 2 ounces 

Powdered tartar emetic 1 ounce 

Powdered sulphur 1 ounce 

Powdered mux vomica \ l / 2 drachms 

Epsom salts \ l / 2 pounds 

Use the Fever Drops, page 76. Many druggists may tell you 
that an ounce of tartar emetic is too much, but it is all right. I have 
given an ounce and a half with no bad results. 

BLOODY MURRAIN. 

Same treatment as for milk fever. 

FALSE NOTIONS ABOUT THE COW. 

The poor old cow has to suffer from the ignorance and supersti- 
tion of man. Her horns are bored with holes for hollow horn; her 
tail is split open and filled with salt and pepper to drive out an im- 
aginary wolf; she is given an artificial cud and expected to chew it 
when she is supposed to have "lost her cud;" and other things 
equally silly, useless or cruel. Don't do any of these things. If a 
cow looks sick and does not chew her cud, it is simply because there is 
something wrong with her stomach and she fails to belch the food up 
for mastication, as she does when in a normal and healthy condition. 

STERILITY (BARREN COWS.) 

This is caused by a polypus or tumor 
growing on the neck of the womb. 
Sometimes the neck of the womb is 
closed. These can be discovered by 
greasing the hand and making an ex- 
amination. When they are discovered remove with ecraseur. If the 
neck should be closed dilate same by introducing the finger. 




morgan's treatment and training. 



117 



HOW TO MAKE A COW GIVE DOWN HER MIIJC. 

Take a two-bushel sack, put in it forty to sixty pounds of corn 
or sand, lay it across the small of back. This will made her give 
every drop of it down. 

HOW TO BREAK A COW FROM KICKING. 



Take a rope, tie it around the body in front of her bag and over 
the small of her back, and draw it tight. 
By doing this she cannot kick. 

GROWTH OF A COW'S HOOF. 

This plate shows the abnormal growth 
of a cow's hoof, caused from the mother be- 
ing foundered on acorns while carrying 
the calf. When the calf was dropped the 
hoofs were soft and never became hard, all 
the feet being in the same condition. 




CHICKENS. 



PREVENTIVE AND CURE FOR CHICKEN CHOLERA. 

Creolin 2 ounces 

Tincture of iron 2 ounces 

Black antimony y^ ounce 

Cayenne pepper 1 ounce 

Put the above in a gallon jug and fill with rain water. For 
every twenty-five full-grown chickens, mix two ounces of the mixture 
with sour milk or corn meal, and feed once or twice a week as a pre- 
ventive. If the chickens are sick give it to them daily. This recipe 
to also a fine thing to give hens in winter to make them lay. 

Change your roosts once a year, and whitewash inside the 
chicken house, mixing a quart of crude carbolic acid with a bucket- 
ful of whitewash, and it is a good thing to fumigate the chicken- 
house twice a year by burning sulphur. 

To kill lice and mites on chickens, mix lard and sulphur to- 
gether and rub at the roots of wings, and around the head at the base 
of the comb, except on setting hens; for them use the powdered sul- 
phur alone, as grease on the eggs would kill the eggs. 



IlS TWENTIETH CENTURY HORSE BOOK. 



HOGS. 



TO KEEP HOGS IN A HEALTHY CONDITION. 

Copperas i pound 

Sulphur i pound 

Nitrate of potash I pound 

Powdered aloes i pound 

Powdered poke root 6 ounces 

Dissolve all this in a kettle containing four gallons of hot water, 
then add one ounce arsenic, one pound slacked lime, and eight 
ounces creolin. This is a mixture for eight gallons, three-fourths 
water and one-fourth milk. Turn the hogs into a dry lot at night. 
Next morning give a bucketful of the mixture, having thoroughly 
stirred it before taking from the barrel. A bucketful is a dose for 
twenty hogs, and should be given once a day for three days. Can be 
mixed with soft corn or bran mash. Care should be taken and not 
allow the hog to get too much. The hog should be fed on bran mash, 
soft corn and milk while giving this remedy. This is a good pre- 
ventive for hog cholera. 

Nearly all sickness of the hog is supposed to be cholera, when in 
fact a great many die from pneumonia, typhoid fever and measles. 
There is, in fact, very little cholera. These diseases are caused by 
having too many hogs in one lot and allowing them to sleep in ma- 
nure piles on cold nights where they will bed up and become very 
hot from the steam that arises from the manure, and when they get 
out of this bed. in the cold air it causes them to catch cold and have 
pneumonia; and some make the mistake of allowing hogs to sleep 
under old barns or houses where it is very dry. This should not be 
allowed, as the dust they breathe causes all kinds of diseases. Some 
people imagine that a hog should be allowed to stay in filthy pens. 
This is a grave error as they should be kept in clean pens. 

HOW TO GIVE MEDICINE TO A HOG. 

Take a rope and put two half hitches over the upper jaw, put the 
rope over a door or the limb of a tree, and pull him up till the fore 
feet barely touch the ground, and with a large spoon you can then 
put any medicine you wish to back on his tongue. Never turn a hog 
on his back to drench him, as when in that position the valve in his 
throat opens and the medicine enters the lungs. Hundreds of hogs 
have been killed in this manner. 



morgan's treatment and training. 



119 



INDEX. 



Age of horse, how to tell 47 

Anatomy of the horse 9 

Arabian horse 5 

Artist Montrose and rider 13 

Bald Eagle, skeleton 4 

Bridle, riding and driving 18 

ten-cent 20 

simple 29 

anti-kicking or bitting 29 

controlling 31 

anti-kicking and anti-runa- 
way 32 

stallion 34 

Balky horse, how to start 24 

to tie to wagon tongue. . 25 

Blinds or blinkers on horses , 38 

Cattle: 

Actinomycosis 114 

After pains in cows 115 

Bag of -cow, inflammation of 115 

Bloating 115 

Barren cows 1 16 

Black leg 116 

Bloody murrain 116 

Colic 115 

Dehorning 114 

Diarrhea 115 

Fever, milk or parturition 116 

False notions about cows 116 

Kicking, to break a cow from 117 

Lumpy jaw 114 

Milk, to make a cow give down. . .117 

Sore feet 115 

Sore teats 115 

Udder, inflammation of 115 

Sterility it6 

Castration of horses 104 

of old stallions 106 

of ridglings 107 

consequences of 108 

Chicken cholera, preventive and cure 117 
Child, impress the mind of with 

kindness 51 

Classes, Dr. Morgan's, facing 51 

Colt, to teach to right or left 21 

to tie in stable first time 23 

riding 23 

Colts, wild, how to handle 20 

Defects in a horse, to find .... 40 

Dog, Diseases and Treatment: 

Bitch, how to spay ....113 

Constipation '. 112 

Distemper 112 

Diarrhea 112 

Fits 112 

Mange 113 

Poisoning 113 

Puppyhood, disease of 111 

Sore feet 113 



Drenching a horse 83 

Duke, Dr. Morgan's horse 14 

Facts about the horse 48 

Feeding a horse 39 

History of the horse 7 

Hogs, to keep in healthy condition. .118 
how to give medicine to 118 

Horse, Diagnosis and Treatment 
of Diseases: 

Azoturia 94 

Bowels, inflammation of 84 

Bronchitis 86 

Black water 87 

Blood, to stop 89 

Bots . . 91 

Barb wire cuts 94 

Colic, spasmodic or cramp 80 

gas or flatulent 82 

blood, retention of urine. . . 83 

Coughs and colds 84 

Choking 90 

Collar boils • 92 

Cribbing 93 

Capped hock 95 

Curb 98 

Distemper 84 

Dropsy 86 

Diabetes 87 

Diarrhea 88 

Eyes, weak, sore or inflamed 91 

Elephant leg 93 

Fever, catarrhal 85 

Fistula 88 

Fever, mud 90 

Founder 92 

Foul sheath 99 

Foot of horse, diseases: 

Buck knees ■ . 101 

Contracted feet 102 

Corns . . 103 

Forging 102 

Interfering 101 

Lameness, to detect 100 

Liniment, foot 103 

Narrow heel 102 

Nail wounds in feet 102 

Overreaching 102 

Shaky knees 101 

Stumbling 103 

Grease heel 90 

Glanders, chronic 93 

Gleet, nasal 94 

Hematuria 87 

Heaves 87 

Hide bound 95 

Hydrocele no 

Indigestion 95 

Insect bites 97 

Kidneys, inflammation of 86 

Kidney affection 94 



120 



TWENTIETH CENTURY HORSE BOOK. 



INDEX— Continued, 



Horse, Diagnosis and Treatment 
of Diseases— Concluded: 

Lungs, inflammation of 85 

Lameness, stifle 91 

Lock-jaw 92 

Laminitis 91 

Lymphangitis 93 

Mange 94 

Pleurisy : 86 

Pneumonia 85 

Poll evil 88 

Rheumatism 90 

Ring bone 95 

Ruptured colt, to bandage 99 

Sore throat 84. 

Stomach, inflammation of 84 

Staggers, blind or sleepy 87 

Scratches 90 

Stifle lameness 91 

Sit-f asts 92 

Sore neck 92 

Sore shoulder 92 

Stump-sucking 93 

Shed his hair, to make a horse .... 93 

Sweeny 93 

Spavin, bone 95 

high 96 

occult 96 

an old disease 96 

blood 97 

bog 97 

Side bone 95 

Soft puffs 96 

Snake bites 97 

Shoe boil 95 

Splints 98 

Teeth of horse, and their diseases: 

Bighead 52 

Diseased teeth, symptoms 62 

Decay of the teeth 60 

Floating the horse's teeth 59 

Filling holes worn through to the 

nasal cavity 68 

Instruments for horse dentistry. 61 

Long teeth 57 

Lampers 56 

Managing a horse while working 

on his teeth 63 

Mouth of horse, to open 54 

Shedding 58 

Teething 56 

Teeth, to examine with hand. . . 54 

Ulcerated tooth 53 

Wolf, or blind teeth 55 

Tumors 89 

Thrush 90 

Tetanus 91 

Thoroughpin 97 

Worms 94 

Watery seed no 

Jacks, treatment of no 



Jockeys' Tricks: 

Buck and kick, to make a horse. . 44 

Blind, to make a horse 45 

Balky horse, to start 45 

Balk, to make a true horse 45 

Brands, to remove old ones 47 

Courage of stallion or jack, to 

raise 47 

Doping a horse for trade 46 

Eating, to keep a horse from 44 

Foundered, to make a horse look 

as if 45 

Glanders, to make a horse appear 

to have 46 

Heaves, to shut down to trade. . . 46 
Heaves, to detect a horse has been 

doped for it 47 

Lame, to make a horse 45 

Lame or sore leg, to hide 47 

Liniment, trader's 47 

Old sores, how to dry up 45 

Prance around, to make a horse 

when being shown 47 

Restorative liquid 44 

Ruptured mare, how to trade 46 

Shaky knees, t3 make strong and 

straight long enough to trade ... 46 
Sweenied shoulders, to hide hol- 
low places on 46 

White marks, to remove 44 

White spots, to make them come 

on a horse 45 

Wind-broken horse, to hide de- 
fects in 45 

Morgan, Dr. D. B Frontispiece. 

Morgan, Henry B 14 

Morgan, Daniel T 2 

Mules, treatment of no 

Outfit, Dr. Morgan's, facing 50 

Pain, to prevent while operating. . . .113 
Pulse of a horse, how to find 73 

Remedies, Morgan's Twelve Re- 
liable. 

Blood Powders 79 

Carbolized Iodine 78 

Caustic Blister 77 

Colic Cure, Prince's 75 

Eye Water 77 

Fever Drops 76 

Healing Oil and Germicide 75 

Haarlem Oil 79 

Iodine Ointment 78 

Liniment, White Horse Duke's. ... 74 

Physic, Reliable 78 

Tonic, General . . 79 

Rights of horses 40 

Silent sufferer, the horse a 72 

Training the Horse: 

Add, subtract, multiply and di- 
vide, to teach a horse to 35 



morgan's treatment and training. 



121 



INDEX— Concluded. 



Training the Horse — Continued: 

Bow, teaching horse to 35 

Give things, teaching horse to 33 

Gallop, teaching horse to 36 

Jumping, to keep a horse from. ... 28 
Kicking and pawing in stall, to 

break 28 

Kiss, teaching horse to 33 

Kick, teaching horse to 36 

Lame, teaching horse to go 34 

Laugh, teaching horse to 37 

"No," teaching horse to say. ...... 31 

Patience, perseverance and kind- 
ness 16 

Pawing with right or left foot, to 
teach 35 



Training the Horse — Concluded: 

Roll over, teaching horse to 36 

Rope around hind legs, getting 

horse accustomed to 25 

Sit up, teaching horse to 30 

vScaring, to prevent horse from .... 37 

Tying horse that pulls back 24 

Throwing a vicious horse 26 

Twitcher, to break 27 

Vicious horse, to conquer by throw- 
ing 26 

' ' W ' attachment 22 

Walk on hind legs, teaching horse 

to 32 



* li * 

Open thy lips and speak, 

Protect the dumb and weak, 
Their cause maintain. 

Why should we them abuse? 
Why these kind friends misuse? 

O ! let us never choose 
To cause them pain. 

Sidney Herbert. 

$ # ?i 

POSTSCRIPT* 



This is my fourth and best book on the Horse. I have given it 
my personal supervision in every detail, from Preface to Index, and 
assure my readers that I know it can be relied on in every particular. 
Most of the illustrations were engraved new for this work from photo- 
graphs taken by myself in my travels, the plates being made by the 
Sanders Engraving Co., of St. Louis, and I wish here to thank them 
ior the very prompt service and careful work they gave me. I also 
desire to acknowledge my indebtedness to Mr. Wm. D. Christman, 
of Fredonia, Kansas, who printed the book for me, for valuable as- 
sistance in reading the proofs and arranging the matter. 

David B. Morgan. 



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LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



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